1987 3607 Batteries, charger and switch

[RWS]

We have 4 batteries and an orginal charger that the PO had rebulit. Our battery switch has 4 settings, 1,ALL,2 and OFF. I would like to isolate battery draw to the deep cycle batteries when on anchor. So to find the setting that will do this I turned on an aft cabin light and salon light thinking that when I switched to the postion for starting the lights would go off. They didn't in any postion but OFF. I'm thinking since this boat is new to us we should update the charger and get new batteries and find smeone who can make sure or correct the why PO has tied all batteries together.Any thoughts or advice?

[bud37]

What kind of charger is this rebuilt one ? Chances are IMO that could be replaced with much better....up to you.

Really the battery switch is doing what it is supposed to.....when you turn the control you are telling the boat where to get its power from, bank1/bank2 or both....it is 12volts no matter what.....until you turn it to off, then that should shut the boat down except for the bilge pumps and a few things that may be hard wired to selected banks.

Maybe test the batteries, ....what are they, type and how big/ group size.... amp hour reserve

[RWS]

Thanks Bud37,
I think charger change is a must. I dont have brand of battery info here with me but I know 2 are gel and it may not be good to have different type batteries . Shouldn't one setting on the switch cut power from the house besides OFF postion? with 4 batteries will I need a 4 bank charger?

[km1125]

You need to figure out what your battery configuration is. I have a 3607 and also have 4 batteries, but they're divided into three banks. Two different starting batteries and two for the house.

Originally the 1-2-all-off switch would just switch between the two starting banks and provide power to both engines and all house loads with whatever selection you had (one or two or both or none).

Since then I wired up a dedicated switch for the house batteries, so now the 1-2-all-off just controls what goes to the engines and I have another 1-2-all-off for the house. If you switch the house to "2" it connects to the engines so it essentially works exactly like the original switch. If you switch it to "all" it will connect the house bank to whatever is selected on the engine switch, so you can connect all the batteries in parallel for charging or supplying loads.

The best way to figure your switch arrangement is intrusive but conclusive. Disconnect all the batteries (making sure you protect the ends so you don't short anything out). Then put the switch on "1", turn some loads on (some lights would be fine, or a blower), then connect each bank one at a time by itself and see which bank ends up powering the load. Then switch to "2" and do the same thing. You can try and follow wires if they are accessible too and draw a wiring diagram. Your diagram will be different than the Carver stock one because theirs only had two batteries (if you bought the "dual battery" option!).

And I definitely agree that if you have some GEL and some of other types (flooded or AGM) then you need a different charger. You could just add another charger for the dedicated banks or you could replace the existing with something that will do everything (but more $$$$)