Kohler 7.3E coolant replacement

[Cliffm]

Our 2006 Carver 36MY 7.3E generator coolant looks more brown than orange, as DEXCOOL should appear.

What's the crafty owner's tips/tricks to drain the old coolant in order to make room for new coolant, but avoid a major mess in the bilge.

I am aware that I need to utilize the air bleed plug across from the filler neck in order to release the air pocket.

My initial thought was to remove the temp sensor to drain from there.

I don't see a good low point accessible drain plug. Maybe I'm missing something?

As always, any insightful support is appreciated.

Cliff

[KeithS]

I was waiting to see if anyone had an answer for you. I do not. I have done this many times and have never figured out a neat, logical way. I finally give up, yank off every hose I can reach, use my coolant pressure tester to blow some air through to push coolant out. I then overfill and bleed like crazy to try and get out the trapped air. I then just clean up the big mess. I don't feel like a real professional doing it that way, but even with one sitting on the bench in the shop, I haven't figured out a better way. Let me know what you finally do.

[Cliffm]

Source of the post I was waiting to see if anyone had an answer for you. I do not. I have done this many times and have never figured out a neat, logical way. I finally give up, yank off every hose I can reach, use my coolant pressure tester to blow some air through to push coolant out. I then overfill and bleed like crazy to try and get out the trapped air. I then just clean up the big mess. I don't feel like a real professional doing it that way, but even with one sitting on the bench in the shop, I haven't figured out a better way. Let me know what you finally do.

Well, I thank you for your reply, and in sight...

This leads to my original thought of changing as much as I can easily access, topping off with new, then repeat a couple more times, down the road, striving for a reduction in dilution per change. After 3 or 4 drain/top off, I would think I'd be 80% fresh.

I appreciate the shared experience, especially the bench top comments, as it shows the challenge, especially my current, tucked under the salon floor position. Getting the sound cabinet top off, was challenging enough to forgo going further disassembly.

Thanks again,

[Helmsman]

Source of the post

Source of the post I was waiting to see if anyone had an answer for you. I do not. I have done this many times and have never figured out a neat, logical way. I finally give up, yank off every hose I can reach, use my coolant pressure tester to blow some air through to push coolant out. I then overfill and bleed like crazy to try and get out the trapped air. I then just clean up the big mess. I don't feel like a real professional doing it that way, but even with one sitting on the bench in the shop, I haven't figured out a better way. Let me know what you finally do.

Well, I thank you for your reply, and in sight...

This leads to my original thought of changing as much as I can easily access, topping off with new, then repeat a couple more times, down the road, striving for a reduction in dilution per change. After 3 or 4 drain/top off, I would think I'd be 80% fresh.

I appreciate the shared experience, especially the bench top comments, as it shows the challenge, especially my current, tucked under the salon floor position. Getting the sound cabinet top off, was challenging enough to forgo going further disassembly.

Thanks again,

You can probably use on of the DC pumps that come with the tank attached to drain from the filler tube. I did this on both my engines, starting with the heat exchanger hoses, and then moving through hoses as I went lower on the engines. Worked like a charm.