Carver Owners Forum

So I thought I would replace all my Navigation Lights and my Deck Lights with LED's. Did the research and found what I thought were exact replacements from the same manufacture and low and behold had to modify each and everyone.
The manufactures forgot one important thing, to bring the wires out of the casings in the same place they did 20 years ago. So if you plan on going LED, plan on modify every new light you install. Mike

Good to know Mike. What make are they?

PacTradeMarine nav lights, identical to what's on our 1998 355 ACMY, the deck lights are Barnegat Light Marine lights, which are also exact replacements of our deck lights, they just didn't consider wire exit position on the lights, instead of exiting in the middle, they exit at the top and miss center mounting hole already on the boat. The nav lights
I can understand because the original installation lights were modified when installed. Oh well only have the port nav light left to install. Then replace the mast light bulb with an LED bulb. Another project done. OBTW they are bright and way cooler than the original lights. You could burn yourself on those original lights, they really got hot. Mike

I read a report discussing nighttime SAR missions.
Their infrared search devices do not recognize LED lights very well from much of a distance.
Just a thought.

I think it might be the red spectrum that causes the most issues but if you're trying to get spotted and you have power for nav lights, I would think one can turn on interior or cockpit lights, an emergency flashlight, your docking lights, spotlight, ...etc.

On my last boat I changed all bulbs to LED. Then I figured the power draw of the Nav lights was a wash since we are under power when they are lit. The anchor and interiors are a different story, and really appreciate the savings in power (and heat!) the LEDs offer for interior and accent lighting.

This boat I have changed all interiors/ accent and the Anchor light to LED. Superbrightled.com really likes me. I also changed all my landscape lights, I have gone from 6 power supplies to 1. All the lights in my work van are LED. Now looking at what to do with the shop lights.

I did some checking into LED's yesterday and was told that you have to put wattage reducers on the lines powering the fixtures that you intend to put the LED's into. I was told that just plugging them in they will not last and will burn out soon unless you reduce the wattage to the fixture.

Any truth to that?

Depends on the quality of the LED. Good ones have a wide operational voltage range. A cheaper one with a narrow range will burn out sooner due to alternator and charger outputs as they can approach 15 volts. For units with little tolerances above 12 volts, 2-3 volts will make a difference as the additional heat will reduce its life. Heat is a killer of electronics.

RGrew176 wrote:Source of the post I did some checking into LED's yesterday and was told that you have to put wattage reducers on the lines powering the fixtures that you intend to put the LED's into. I was told that just plugging them in they will not last and will burn out soon unless you reduce the wattage to the fixture.
Any truth to that?

No - LEDs are very forgiving for voltage and will operate over a wide range. A 12 VDC LED will usually work fine from about 9V to about 16V. They have a typical expected life of 10,000 hours - incandescent bulbs are usually 2,000 hours. The one catch is for LED bulbs on dimmers or blinkers - LEDs do not dim well, and don't have enough resistance to cycle many blinkers. That's why they don't always work on when folks try to replace their turn signals on cars.

Replacing incandescent bulbs with cool white LEDs in your nav lights will work fine, as the green/red comes from the lens, not the LED. If you go with colored LED nav lights, make SURE they are USCG approved. There are some for sale out there that are not USCG approved and do not meet requirements. Buyer beware.

Viper wrote:Source of the post Depends on the quality of the LED. Good ones have a wide operational voltage range. A cheaper one with a narrow range will burn out sooner due to alternator and charger outputs as they can approach 15 volts. For units with little tolerances above 12 volts, 2-3 volts will make a difference as the additional heat will reduce its life. Heat is a killer of electronics.

Thanks for the information.