Carver Owners Forum

This little section of line has always bothered me since there is a check valve in here so the only way to get pink stuff in this line is by using some sort of pump to force open the check valve/pressure regulator. Used a drill pump for many years but they are so cheap they last only a few years at best and are a pita to prime. Had problems this year until it dawned on me. When I have my wash down pump hooked up to the pink stuff and in the process of filling the lines, simply hook up a short length of garden hose from the wash down outlet to the city inlet and pump a bit in with any tap open to fill that small section of line. So simple but my god it took me 20 years to think that one up. This is going to be my new method from now on. My rear wash down happens to be about 3 feet from My city inlet which makes it a breeze on the 41CMY.

Boat is all winterized now and in hibernation state until next spring.

Another option I use is a 1 gallon sprayer filled with pink and a hose connection end. Pump it up to pressurize and pull the trigger......done.

That's a great solution.

I usually would blow it out with air. That's where I'd start with emptying the entire potable water system. First, run potable pump while up on plane or plowing with the bow really high (because my water outlet on the potable tank was at the rear of the tank) and run the tank empty. Then, when back at the dock use compressed air through the city water inlet, pressurizing the entire system and blowing as much water out of the lines as possible. Then, bypass the water heater and remove the potable pump inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of pink antifreeze and use the pump to push some of that into the potable lines. Sometimes I'd use a whole gallon and it would fill the lines. Other years I'd just pump a bit in there (maybe a quart), then use air pressure to blow that through each faucet, resulting in the lines being nearly empty with just a trace of antifreeze in there.

Great solutions guys, everyones setup may require something different so keep them coming. Always a good thing to learn new methods.

I typically use a 1/6th HP submersible pump in a 5 gallon pail of non tox. I like your idea better, as I don’t have to haul more stuff to the boat. Good thinking, never thought of that one. I use my water pump to pump non tox through the boat direct from the containers anyway to winterize after blowing water system out with a compressor.

I like it, thanks.

Greg

I had problems with my check valve a few years ago. Took it out and haven’t missed it for one minute.

I just blow air in it same when winterizing the rv with this. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water ... ywQAvD_BwE

buster53 wrote:Source of the post I had problems with my check valve a few years ago. Took it out and haven’t missed it for one minute.

Curious, when the potable pump is turned on I would think the water would shoot out from the inlet with no check valve unless you have a good cap on it capable of 50 psi?

g36 wrote:Source of the post I just blow air in it same when winterizing the rv with this. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water ... ywQAvD_BwE

Would work very well but this implies bringing some type of tool to produce compressed air. What are you using for air?

A little caveat here regarding using the wash down pump to flush anti freeze thru the fresh water system. If you have a fresh water wash down ....good......but if it uses raw water then you will be introducing contaminants to your fresh water system from whatever body of water you were in. It can still be used just be sure to sanitize that pump and hose work before using for winterizing.

That is the way I did it for years as the connections were side by each..... ....also used the blow out method.