396 Aft Cabin 2000 - Bilge pumps replacements

[tgebler]

My 396 has three bilge pumps. I am looking to replace the pumps and/or float switches for the forward and aft pumps. I would appreciate any thoughts on these projects since they pumps/floats are far down and blocked by the sumps, wires and hoses.

Are there any shortcuts or other helpful advice from anyone with experience? Thanks.

[paulr]

Unforuntuntaly the fwd bilge pump permanantly covered by flooring when I bought the boat. Without being able to see it you need to turn the fwd bilge pump switch "on" on the bridge then go to the main electrical panel in the solon and turn "on" the fwd bilge pump and watch the DC ammeter. If the pump is working you will get a 2 amp deflection on the meter.
If you want to test the float switch I used a back scratcher to reach it. I forget which switch needs to be turned off. Then lift the float. if the pump doesnt come on check the breaker in the aft cabin lower fwd bulk head. I had to replace my float switch. I couldnt properly reach it because its 32 inches below the finished floor. I got my neighbor to remove and replace the switch because he was 6'3" tall and could reach it. The switch and pump are on 2 different circuits.

[paulr]

In addition, When we replaced the Forward float switch on the 396 I wrote a note to my mataintenance records.
7/19/2025 – Changed out FWD bilge pump Float Switch. Note: The FWD bilge pump can be turned on manually with the bridge switch “on” but the breaker in the solon must be on. When leaving the boat turn off all bilge pumps.
Float switch for forward bilge has its own 12-volt source with an emergency breaker in the AFT State Room; this is a great redundant 12-volt source of 12-volt power for the pump. The float switch breaker inn the aft cabin is connected directly to the battery.

[Viper]

Whenever you have to get to something like this that is really hard to reach down low, make an aluminum L bracket with a bottom wide enough to mount the pump and float, and long enough so you can screw the top of the L into the side up high where the screws can be easily reached. The aluminum plate doesn't have to be that thick, 1/8" is fine. It'll only be secured to the side, not the bottom. Next time there's a failure, unscrew the bracket and pull up the whole assembly with the components attached. I always have a long L shaped board made of fiberglass that I make and cut off a section as needed for supporting things like this. This makes things way easier to access and let's face it, something will fail again! Thankfully some OEMs use this method in their builds.

[drbulloc]

I have a Carver 396MY also. The bilge pump is working fine. My problem is the discharge hose from the pump has disintegrated. I cannot find out how the hose is routed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks