Norcold DE-251E

[USAFRet]

The fridge worked fine on "high" on shore power for 12 hours, then started cycling on and off (you could hear the compressor kick for a few seconds, then "off") when I turned the temp knob to the halfway position. I turned it back up again and the compressor turned on and stayed on. I placed it back to the halfway position and then we went to DC power once we were underway. We checked it every couple hours and noticed the temp was coming up. I couldn't hear the compressor, but am not sure it was off or on due to the power plant noise. I verified the DC Refer switch was on, but didn't troubleshoot any further.

Around the evening we were plugged in again, and it was working without the cycling I mentioned earlier, so I swapped over to DC. After an hour, I verified the fridge was still working in that mode (the freezer plate was cold), and then placed it back to AC power.

The next day it was dead, other than a few pathetic attempts to kick on, then off.

I'll have a refrigerator tech check it out in a couple weeks, and can survive on coolers for the time being. I started pricing similar capacity units on the off chance the repair isn't economical, but don't see anything for cheaper than a grand or so. OUCH.

[AaHubb]

Welcome to boat pricing. $1000 = 1 boat buck. Norcold is well known for their high prices however a dual voltage setup would not be cheap by any vendor. You might look into RV units.

[Seif911]

Agreed that the RV frog will work just as well but I doubt any cheaper. They usually start their pricing at $1300. If you end up going this route, one of the cheapest RV places on the net to get one would be a place called PPL. I have bought quite a bit from them. Good luck.

[USAFRet]

The pricing is painful. I'll get the mounting dimensions from the owners manual and start shopping around this weekend. I like the idea of checking out dual voltage RV units and will add that to my searches. I like the idea of dual voltage but am toying with the following:

Purchase an AC only fridge (4-6cf.) I think the operating amperage is 1.4, or wattage should be less than 200), and power it with a 420 watt inverter that is powered by my cockpit 12v outlet while we are underway. Do you guys see any train wrecks with this approach?

[AaHubb]

One possible problem, low cost inverters don't output a true sine wave. That may or may not be a problem for the compressor motor, Or it may work fine... for a while. Of course the frig would be cheap enough to replace every few years anyway.

[waybomb]

There are RV and boat surplus stores. For instance, Bontragers or Johnsons in White Pigeon, Michigan, or Wolf's in Benton Harbor Michigan, Kendor in Wisconsin, etc. Check ebay. Check Craigslist via searchtempest.com - you can search the entire country with searchtempest in one simple search.

You can do better than 1000.

[Mkemper]

The two things that go out most is the type B chatter protector or the contactor/relay. Below us a guide to check it out

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncolddedc.pdf

Just fixed mine in that the thermostat when out. I could not find a replacement so I installed two from grander @ $16. One on the 110v the other on the 12v side. Right now I am running it on 12v because the chatter control when out. (Need to order a new one)

[waybomb]

Oooooo, I downloaded that manual and saved it. Great find! I hope I never have to use it, but it sure is good to have it just in case!