Carver Owners Forum

Has anyone had an issue with their Malber dryer where the wires melt near the capacitor? This is where the power cord enters the dryer in the back. Anyone had a similar failure, and better yet fixed it? I'm hoping a competent appliance repairman can rewire it.

I can't speak to your dryer issue in particular, but just a suggestion.... make sure your appliance guy knows and is aware of marine wiring practices if he will be rewiring.

You probably have but just to be on the safe side....good luck man.

Sounds as if there was a poor connection. Was the termination at the capacitor a spade type connection? I would suggest when the wires are replaced, use an eyelet/screwed connection, and the use of a proper crimping tool. I would not use one of those junk multigage stripper/crimper deals.

Ya you'll want them to explore why that happened to begin with in case the condition still exists though I agree with Fred, it was likely a poor connection. Hopefully that's all it was and not some other underlying issue that might be more difficult and time consuming to detect. Don't let them skimp on material and proper practices here or you may not be as lucky next time. If they repair it right and it happens again, they need to dig deeper.

waybomb wrote:Source of the post Sounds as if there was a poor connection. Was the termination at the capacitor a spade type connection? I would suggest when the wires are replaced, use an eyelet/screwed connection, and the use of a proper crimping tool. I would not use one of those junk multigage stripper/crimper deals.

It was a spade connection on the terminal block. That's exactly where the melting occurred. I think you are right considering how easily the other undamaged connector slid right off the post. Very little resistance. I'll see what I can do about rewiring with better fitting terminal/connectors

I was able to track down an OEM terminal block and mains filter (capacitor) and will rewire it myself. I do have some competence in rewiring something exactly the way I found it. I've restored two classic cars and did the wiring myself. Now don't ask me to create the wiring from scratch because I know my limitations!

This should be a piece of cake but I am going to explore exactly the best way to improve the connections at the terminal block and ensure they stay put. Thanks guys!

If you can't retrofit to ring terminals and have no choice but to use spade connectors because of the OEM block, squeeze the spade connector on the flat side a bit so it's a tighter fit when you slide it on. Given the application, some would also put a dab of solder on the open part of the connection where there is an opening at the connector and terminal so the solder is on both the connector and terminal. This will prevent movement and make a better electrical connection. Then paint the connector and the terminal with liquid electrical tape to help protect it from corrosion and minimize movement if you don't solder it. Also secure the wire close to the block to minimize movement at the wire/connector joint as well and take strain off the connection. Remember, no solid wire allowed on board, and while the unit's wiring may not be marine type, I recommend you use marine wiring and connectors.

waybomb wrote:Source of the post I would not use one of those junk multigage stripper/crimper deals.

Nothing worse than a cheap stripper! Or crimper...