From old to new;Wash, polish, wax?

[Seif911]

Good Morning All,
I have the 1977 Carver that sat for 5 years. It is not very clean or shiny. How do I restore it to it's glorious shine, or at least the best that it can get? Do you have any product names that you recommend? My thought was:
- wash and scrub it 1st
- depending how shiny it is or not, polish it with 1 or maybe 2 different grits of polish
- final would be a wax and buff
Does this sound correct? Like I said, any product recommendations?
Thanks,
Steve

[waybomb]

Hi Steve.

The wax job on my current project Carver still isn't where I'd like it. To do what I did, I just used a small 6" palm buffer and 3M heavy duty restorer. And then waxed with MaryKate MaxiWax. I've been using MaxiWax for years and really like it. But I need to cut deeper than the little buffer can do.

So I just ordered a Makita 9227 polisher buffer, and a quart each of 3M 6060, 6064, 6068, and 6085. I am going to learn how to use a machine polisher in a week or so. And I'll finish it all of with MaxiWax.

[Seif911]

I will be waiting to see how it goes for you with the bigger polisher. I think I have a medium one and will definitely start with the wash to see where I am with a shine.
Thanks,
Steve

[AaHubb]

Hi Steve.
To really cut through oxidation you need a buffer like the Makita that Fred mentioned. Use a wool pad and a good quality product like 3M or Macguires. Run the buffer @ about 1500 rpm but keep it moving. It will take some time and work 'cause there are no short cuts to a great shine.
Good luck and have fun.
..Aaron

[Bossdog]

I purchased a 1987 Carver that was really chaulked. I tried several waxes and polish. I checked with St. Lawrence Restoration, and they suggested a 3-step program. Start with Vitreo Diamond cut with a buffer, (long hard process), then to the Vitreo light polish (by hand), then the final step was Vitreo wax. The end result was great. Lotta work, lotta time.
Dave

[MissWhit's]

wash and scrub it 1st
- depending how shiny it is or not, polish it with 1 or maybe 2 different grits of polish
- final would be a wax and buff

Jeff, You are close with what you should do. Here is what I am currently using for the last 5 years. It seems to work very good but it does depend completely on what you are starting with.
If you have a large amount of oxidation/chaulk it is best to WET SAND with 800 grit sand paper first. If you do not do this the COMPOUND will soak into the gelcoat and stain it. Remember gelcoat is nothing but a color barrier on top of the fiberglass and it will have some thickness to it so sanding will not hurt but if the gelcoat is too thing in areas you might sand through so be careful and watchful. After you sand out the worst areas you will COMPOUND the boat with a rotor industrial machine (must be heavy duty) using any kind of fast action/heavy duty COMPOUND. I use 3M super duty compound # 05954. After you have completed the boat with COMPOUND then wash it with a diluted bucket of water, boat soap and Isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol helps dislodge the compound. The second step is to POLISH the boat with a polish step. This step will involve a second machine and it is a dual action polisher. I use a Porter-Cable model #7424 that has a Velcro backing plate so the pad can be change quickly. I also use Menserna IP2000 intensive polish as this stuff is super. The Germans perfected it for their high end cars. This polish operation removed the HAZE from the compounding operation and really brings the shine out. The final step is protecting the finish and I hand apply Klasse 3 in 1 cleaner/protector. This stuff blocks 100% UV rays and will last 6 months of sun light exposure or even longer if the boat is kept under cover. I purchase all of my cleaning supplies from Autopia Car Care Products and recommend them. I would paste a link but I believe I am not suppose to in this forum. Final word. Everyone has their own ways but you use what works as tried and true. I have tried my way many times with success.

Steps to shine: COMPOUND---POLISH----PROTECT. Compound is where all the work is but let the machines and not your arms do the work.

Hope this helps. John

[Jab]

Any opinions/experience with marine paint over gelcoat?

I've come across some products and YouTube videos. Maybe not a perfect solution, but as an alternative for making an old hull look a bit better for a few more years? Seems like it could be easier for the amateur than grinding/polishing/waxing?

[waybomb]

I bought that Makita and the 3M xtra cut Perfect-It and the 1, 2,3 Perfect-It.
I should have been doing this for years, instead of my stupid little hand buffers.

I started the job, finally, yesterday. This is so easy to do. Do a 4x4 foot square section at a time. Comes out like new!

My boat was completely and uterly chalked. The sections I diod are now shiny and have depth to them.

Try a machine polisher and some 3m products before you go to Awlgrip or Imron paint. Prep and pllication will be crazy expensive.

[Jab]

OK, I'm going to try some compound/polish/protect.

Here's the lazy man's question.... How clean do I need to get it first?

Is my compounding step going to clean also? Or if I compound a dirty surface am I going to just rub the grime into the gelcoat?

JB

[waybomb]

wet a rag with acetone. Wipe it down. It will also remove some of the chalking.