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Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: October 29th, 2024, 4:30 pm
by Merkinbrumsky
I was having trouble with some leaky fittings and over pressure valve on my hot water heater last season so I plumbed in an isolation set up in order to work on it when I had time. Winterizing the water systems on the boat this year was a bit of a pain. I know some people put winterizing valves on their fresh water systems to bypass the tank when running anti freeze through the system. Do any of you have a set up like this for your ac or head? I’m definitely adding one to the fresh water system in the spring and am thinking about doing the other systems as well to avoid climbing around in the bilge trying to disconnect old hoses and fittings.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 3rd, 2024, 8:06 am
by Viper
I suspect you're talking about a bypass system for the hot water heater so you don't fill it with antifreeze when winterizing the fresh water system. There's a few ways to do that and is super convenient when winterizing so you don't have to remove lines at the tank and reconnect them when you're done. You don't have to "isolate" your fresh water tank, your water pump is the check valve preventing backflow to the tank if it's working properly. As far as isolating other things, I assume you're talking about installing shut-off valves at each faucet and toilet so you can service/repair them without shutting off the entire system. If that's the case, I mean I get the logic but in my case for example that would mean trying to get to areas with very little to no access just to install shut-off valves. I only want to go there when I have to/when a faucet fails. The toilet might be a little easier as there's usually enough room to install a valve right at the toilet. The shut-off valves are doable but not something I personally would bother with the trouble and expense in my particular application.

My AC system is a bit of a challenge to winterize as I don't have separate overboard discharges for each unit. The only one with a thru-hull discharge is the one at the bow, the other two go into a manifold that discharges through more than just a small fitting on the side of the hull. So I can't backflow through separate thru-hull fittings for example. I winterize through the strainer which feeds all three units. The problem is the forward unit discharges antifreeze long before the other two do which is a waste so I get someone to plug the forward discharge after they see antifreeze come out and wait until antifreeze comes out of the other two manifolds, it's a bit of a pain. For this reason I'm considering installing valves on each supply line at the distribution manifold above the AC water pump so I can isolate two AC units when running antifreeze through each one.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 3rd, 2024, 10:45 am
by Merkinbrumsky
After rereading my post it’s not worded properly. Yes, I did put in a bypass for the hot water tank which does make winterizing it easier, just drain the tank as opposed to filling it with pink stuff. What I meant for the other systems is a 3 way valve so instead of disconnecting hoses I could just turn the valve and have another short piece of hose to drop in the antifreeze. I ended up busting a fitting on my fresh water tank trying to disconnect the hose to suck the antifreeze. The hoses coming from the seacocks to the head and ac are also a pain to disconnect and barely long enough to reach the jug of pink stuff. I was thinking of putting 3 way valves on them with a a piece of hose long enough to reach out of the bilge and into a bucket of antifreeze so I don’t need to disconnect anything. I know they sell 1/2” kits for doing this with the fresh water tank and I know some people have it set up that way. I haven’t heard or read of anyone doing this with their ac or head though and was wondering if there is a reason why.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 3rd, 2024, 11:45 am
by bud37
I used to just remove the hose from the thru hull and put a real long necked funnel in that hose and put pink in that way, the a/c pump would just put it thru the system. That funnel can create the suction pressure needed to get things going.

As far as the fresh water system, you need a quick disconnect next to the tank then a screen before your fresh water pump. That is where you can put the pink in that system. Those disconnects will pay off later on pump changes/maintenance etc.

There are many variations on all of this....I mean if you are going to keep this boat for a long time then by all means put in tees and fittings and hoses to make the winterizing/maintenance as easy as possible.

EDIT....sorry don't forget to install a shut off valve at the tank.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 3rd, 2024, 7:17 pm
by Viper
Ya I'm all for making it as easy as possible to winterize.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 3rd, 2024, 7:48 pm
by Merkinbrumsky
When I disconnected the potable water hose from the tank this year I had a hell of a time getting the hose loose Ended up breaking a plastic fitting on the bottom of the tank. Ended up having to pull the tank because of clearance issues not allowing the elbow coming off the bottom of the tank to be threaded out while in position in the bilge. Needless to say I don’t want to deal with that one again. I think I will bring my heat gun next tine to help getting stubborn hoses loose.The ac and head aren’t as bad and I may just leave them be for now.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 4th, 2024, 6:47 am
by Viper
Ya I have to use the heat gun for a couple of things, it really helps, especially with the hard helical hoses, those are a real pain.

If you install a three way valve between the tank and the fresh water pump, convert that section to a quick connect system using the appropriate fittings and lines. Valves leak over time and at least with that system you can put a quick connect cap on the end of the wintering intake hose in case your valve starts leaking, otherwise your pump will keep cycling even when you're not calling for water. In fact, when you can, start converting different sections of your plumbing to the quick connect stuff, way easier to deal with.

I use a portable pump to winterize my boat, so all I do is remove the inlet fitting at the pump which is a quick connect, I hook up my pump which draws from a pail of antifreeze and start winterizing. I use this pump/pressure system to do all systems including fresh water, engines, genny, heads, air, dockside water, etc. I keep everything I need in a winterizing tote in the garage, grab it and go, super easy.

Re: Isolation valves for winterizing

Posted: November 4th, 2024, 7:42 am
by Merkinbrumsky
As always gents, thanks for the helpful advice. Very generous of you.