Carver Riviera - Re-Engine

[hcarmich]

Good day,

I recently bought a used 1983 Riv. The previous owner swapped out the Crusaders back in 2003 with GM 4-bolt mains truck 350 cid engines.

Can anyone share their opinion about these? Does anyone have documentation about them?

Thank you!

[waybomb]

They've been in there for 18 years. What's the concern?
I believe your 2807 originally came with 305 small blocks; mine did back in 1988.
Mercruiser and Crusader are based on GM engines.

In fact, I am attempting to acquire a 2807 that is in arears. It has cracked blocks, heads, manifolds because the owner did not realize he had to winterize them in Michigan. My plan was to get 4bolt 350's and rebuild them for marine use for the boat.

[hcarmich]

Hey Fred,

No real concern, just looking for feedback on what people think of them - what to watch for etc. I do not have any documentation on them - which would be nice. They are powerful (torque) when you need em.

Hugh

[buster53]

Ok, someone correct me if I’m wrong….
Didn’t Crusader use GM, 4 bolt main, truck blocks for their engines?
Sounds like a previous owner pulled out the original 305’s and went to next size up…350’s.

[bud37]

Hugh.....do you have antifreeze in the engines ( heat exchangers ) ? Like Fred says they have been there a long time, if stuff was going to happen it would have by now in my estimation, they are all GM based engines.

[Viper]

Source of the post Ok, someone correct me if I’m wrong….
Didn’t Crusader use GM, 4 bolt main, truck blocks for their engines?....

Yep.

There's a number of reasons why the originals might have been replaced. I know they've been in there for a while but that doesn't mean there still can't be a failure due to non-marine parts that may have been used, we don't know. Let's hope that's not the case. If nothing else, hopefully the hardware that needs to be ignition proof actually is.

[plittle2005]

These engines should be good for long service if ok now and maintained. I would recommend the below:

Questions:
Location: Fresh, salt or brackish?
Hours?
FWC or raw water cooled? Test antifreeze; when last change?
Good pressure cap (if FWC)?
Change oil, filters, water separators
Was oil milky?
Any hard or cracked hoses or plug wires?
Condition of belts?
Boat bottom clean?
ANY faint gasoline odors? If so DO NOT RUN until fixed
Water flowing out exhaust?
At 3500 max continuous rpm: temperature; Oil pressure (160-170; 40-50 good)
Any rapping, tapping or squealing noises? Any oil leakage?
Temperatures of manifolds; risers; elbows; exhaust hoses (all below 120 F except manifolds at engine temp) IR gun
Any steam from exhaust outlets/
Last time impellers changed?
Last time anodes changed?
Gear oil not milky/
Ignition-protected alternators and ignition systems/
If all above are satisfactory - WOT rpm (very short time!)?

In fall, change all fluids and filters and water sep's again, change impellers, inspect anodes (FW: magnesium; salt: aluminum)
Store with full fuel tanks,plenty of stabilizer, run carbs dry and fog
Compression check is good info

Phil Little

[waybomb]

The only marine parts I'd be looking st:
Carburetors
Fuel pumps
Alternators
Starters
Distributor

If you have a points distributor, yank all that out and install Pertronix upgrade.