ProMariner Combi Inverter Chargers

[bud37]

The genny can take care of its own battery and usually does, I doubt your main engine alts are wired to that battery unless someone has been in there.....easy to figure, just start up main engines and put multi meter on the gen battery. Like G36 says , be careful not to overthink this......just remember one thing, no matter how big the bank is you have to put the amp hours back somehow, so plan on that and all will be well.
In my considered opinion ,70 amp engine alts will not give you 70 amps, my guess would be 50 at best and that would drop dramatically with the batteries state of charge.

[Helmsman]

Source of the post Yes I've installed all the ones mentioned above, even older Xantrex with no issues. I've also installed Promariners both in and out of engine compartments. No heat related issues with engine compartment installs but every boat is. Before you go that route, take your boat out on a regular run, then shut it down, wait about 15 minutes and quickly take a temp reading with an IR gun at a metal object that's down low in the bilge in an area where you might be able to install the unit and see what the temp is. If it's too high, you'll need an alternative location. If I had to buy a unit for myself, I'd probably go with Magnum.

The issue I'd have a hard time deciding is how I would hook it up; don't know that I would use the shore power pass through method. That seems to be the biggest problem I've run into with any brand incorporating that feature. When that fails, you could lose all AC power from the dock unless designs have changed more recently. The alternative is to install a source selector switch/breaker where you would select the AC source manually. Less to go wrong IMO.

No matter which one you go with, read the installation instructions carefully and follow the marine installation procedures. Don't skimp on material quality. Use marine quality connectors and wiring. If you don't, it'll be unsafe and won't pass a survey by a qualified surveyor next time you have one done to satisfy the insurance company, or a potential boat buyer.

Viper, the electrician plans to put a breaker in the box to run to the Promariner for charging. There will be a line back from the inverter to power the outlets and the microwave. If the inverter goes down, it should just affect the outlets and the microwave, right?

[Helmsman]

Source of the post The genny can take care of its own battery and usually does, I doubt your main engine alts are wired to that battery unless someone has been in there.....easy to figure, just start up main engines and put multi meter on the gen battery. Like G36 says , be careful not to overthink this......just remember one thing, no matter how big the bank is you have to put the amp hours back somehow, so plan on that and all will be well.
In my considered opinion ,70 amp engine alts will not give you 70 amps, my guess would be 50 at best and that would drop dramatically with the batteries state of charge.

Thanks Bud! I will try that. I just replaced the generator battery. I will put it on a multimeter tomorrow while I am out and about on the boat.

[Viper]

You may want to consider asking about a single isolator instead of two separate ones. The problem with using two separate isolators is that you don't get the redundancy benefit of two alternators being used to charge all banks. So if one alternator fails, two banks will not be charged. When you use a 2 alternator isolator, if one alternator fails, the other will still charge all 4 banks.

[Viper]

Source of the post....There will be a line back from the inverter to power the outlets and the microwave.....

I'm not sure I'm following that. How is he planning on isolating or switching the source to those items; from inverter to shore power when you're at the dock? Or will the only source be through the inverter at all times?

[Helmsman]

Source of the post You may want to consider asking about a single isolator instead of two separate ones. The problem with using two separate isolators is that you don't get the redundancy benefit of two alternators being used to charge all banks. So if one alternator fails, two banks will not be charged. When you use a 2 alternator isolator, if one alternator fails, the other will still charge all 4 banks.

I asked him about that. I would prefer that but he said it would be better to have two (can’t remember why though I will ask him). Can you get an isolator that will handle four connections plus the two alternators? If so, I would rather have it that way.

Edit to add: I have done some searching on the net for this but haven’t found any 2 alternator 4 battery isolators. I am not sure if we could use the original isolator (2 alternators 3 banks) and connect another isolator with 1 alternator stud which has two banks.

[Helmsman]

Source of the post

Source of the post....There will be a line back from the inverter to power the outlets and the microwave.....

I'm not sure I'm following that. How is he planning on isolating or switching the source to those items; from inverter to shore power when you're at the dock? Or will the only source be through the inverter at all times?

I think the plan is to go through the inverter for those 4 circuits at all times. The inverter has the pass through capability. What are my other options if I want the pass through? Can I also have a switch that will bypass the inverter if there is an issue?

Edit to add: I think you covered this before, but I want to make sure I ask him for the right thing. I am assuming the switch would be before the panel.

[Helmsman]

Source of the post

Source of the post You may want to consider asking about a single isolator instead of two separate ones. The problem with using two separate isolators is that you don't get the redundancy benefit of two alternators being used to charge all banks. So if one alternator fails, two banks will not be charged. When you use a 2 alternator isolator, if one alternator fails, the other will still charge all 4 banks.

I asked him about that. I would prefer that but he said it would be better to have two (can’t remember why though I will ask him). Can you get an isolator that will handle four connections plus the two alternators? If so, I would rather have it that way.

Edit to add: I have done some searching on the net for this but haven’t found any 2 alternator 4 battery isolators. I am not sure if we could use the original isolator (2 alternators 3 banks) and connect another isolator with 1 alternator stud which has two banks.

Edit to add: I found a Promariner (Proisocharge 23127) with a 2 alternator 4 battery configuration. There is an 80amp and 130 amp version. I have 2 70 amp alternators and he said to get the 130 amp version. His original issue was space on the firewall.

[Helmsman]

Ok. We installed the Proiso 2 alternator 4 battery isolator. The instructions said to connect a wire from the regulator if your alternator has a smart regulator. We did not connect wires from the regulator to the isolator. I researched the alternator CRUSADER P/N RA097010A but couldn’t find anything about a “smart” regulator. Anybody have any idea whether it is smart? Probably just dumb like me, but I would like to know.

Also, my starter batteries are 6 year old super start lead acid batteries . Load testing them revealed they are close to the end. The 60 amp charger charges the old house battery (AGM) and the two engine start batteries. Currently the charger is set to lead acid for charging. I would like to buy two group 31 AGM batteries. All I can find are dual use AGM batteries. I have read that it is better to not to use dual use for starting batteries. I have also read to not mix agm and lead acid with the same charger. Any advice on whether to buy AGM batteries as starters, and what to buy?

[Viper]

I doubt the OEM supplied alternator was a "smart" unit. Unless it's been replaced by a previous owner, it's just a regular charge curve. Smart units usually have an external smart charge module though there is some work being done on built-in module units.

Some may disagree, but I still think for the "best bang for your buck", it's hard to beat the old lead acid flooded design. I don't find that any of the newer technologies have outlasted the flooded design enough to justify the expense. Are they less maintenance, sure but the benefit doesn't justify the extra high expense IMO, it may be worth it to others though.

I personally don't like dual purpose batteries. By the very necessity of component design, one can only compromise on the final outcome which is neither the best in a start or deep cycle delivery.