Lastly, in order to replace the white 90 degree elbow with the part that Midnightsun recommends, would I need a PEX expander flairing tool to do that???
I'm not saying the pumps location is the problem, it just means that if it's higher than the water level it's IMPERATIVE that all the connections between the tank and the pump are AIR tight, not just WATER tight, because you will suck in air.
There are also Shark Bite fittings that fit darn near any pipe size as long as it's close. I was sceptical at first but the fitting I replaced on my water heater has worked for two seasons and holding strong.
I happen to own a carwash. As such, i have used many different fittings. For my high pressure stuff (1100-1500 psi), its all hydraulic type hose and fittings. For mid pressure (100-150psi) I have found that John Guest fittings work the best and seem to last for ever. The shark bite and other knock offs you find at the big box stores don't hold up at over 100psi. They may be fine at 50 to 60psi, but why risk it?
Our pump seems to run non stop and doesnt prime when following the directions. Would that mean a failure of the pump? The motor for it seems to run fine. This is a 356.
Swpski wrote:QR_BBPOST Our pump seems to run non stop and doesnt prime when following the directions. Would that mean a failure of the pump? The motor for it seems to run fine. This is a 356.
Not necessarily. Is it running? The impeller may be jammed up with some debris. Have you taken the end off to see if that's clean and spinning freely?
I doubt it's an impeller style pump. For fresh water applications, it's usually a diaphragm type design now. The pump could be bad, may have a faulty or dirty check valve which won't allow it to build pressure, or it may simply be an air lock. At first fill up, most of the water will go to the hot water heater first and you may not get any water out of a faucet until the hot water tank is full. I assume you filled the fresh water tank with water first?!
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