vacuflush leak and smell in head unit

[NextPhase]

Is the vacu pump coming on ?? If it is leaking air or water it would come on. We at one time had smell,because of small hole in top of holding tank where air would escape...

[cpoint]

Qr Bbpost Is the vacu pump coming on ?? If it is leaking air or water it would come on. We at one time had smell,because of small hole in top of holding tank where air would escape...

You mean even with power off? I did not notice, but I will pay attention. there seems to be no smell issue. Again it is mainly filling with clean water, hence reason for no smell. this is definitely a strange problem.

[Viper]

Pump won't operate with power off even if you have a vacuum leak. Hole on top of holding tank may be a cause for odour but it will not cause the pump to operate with the power on as the holding tank is not on the vacuum side. If the pump were coming on due to leaking water, it would be leaking through the bowl seal. If that were the case, with a water valve that's not leaking and your fresh water pump shut off as indicated earlier, you'd have an empty bowl, which isn't the case according to earlier posts.

[cpoint]

Qr Bbpost Pump won't operate with power off even if you have a vacuum leak. Hole on top of holding tank may be a cause for odour but it will not cause the pump to operate with the power on as the holding tank is not on the vacuum side. If the pump were coming on due to leaking water, it would be leaking through the bowl seal. If that were the case, with a water valve that's not leaking and your fresh water pump shut off as indicated earlier, you'd have an empty bowl, which isn't the case according to earlier posts.

That pretty much sums the issue. Is there some other source for water other than the head? definitely not coming from there and seal is good, water stays in bowl fine.

[Viper]

Other than what was mentioned previously, no. The only ways I can think of clean water getting in are:
- from the bowl - seal leak with system "on" and continuous fresh water supply from ship or shore with leaking bowl water valve
- from an overboard discharge leaking through the macerator and Y valve, but tank or part of needs to be below waterline
- from the pump-out deck fitting - rain leaking past seal or someone filled wrong tank with fresh water
- leaving foot pedal down too long when flushing
- a plumbing error in the past
- or someone is messing with you!

Is this boat new to you and this has happened since you got it or have you had it for some time and this just started happening?

[cpoint]

new to me, about 2 months now. I think you are right, some one is messing with me I think everything checks out. so the only thing I need to verify is the Y-Valve. I don't know it's past history, seller is no longer around to ask. Today I am dealing with fuel/engine issue, after that I will tackle the Y-Valve and hope thats the problem. I'll tell you one thing though pump out boat is a regular visitor

[crquisto]

You would only have this y-valve if you have an overboard discharge pump and thru-hull. It will be accessible, probably in your engine compartment. You will have intake thru-hulls for each engine, your generator and your air conditioning. These will all be open for normal operations. You may also have an intake for a wash down pump, if so equipped, and a discharge thru-hull for overboard discharge. These would likely be closed most of the time, and the overboard discharge may actually be locked or zip-tied closed. If you find a discharge thru-hull, the hose will go straight up to a vacuum break above the water line, then to the discharge pump. From there to the y-valve which will have three hoses - the discharge and one to each tank. Mine says Forespar Marelon on it.

[cpoint]

Qr Bbpost You would only have this y-valve if you have an overboard discharge pump and thru-hull. It will be accessible, probably in your engine compartment. You will have intake thru-hulls for each engine, your generator and your air conditioning. These will all be open for normal operations. You may also have an intake for a wash down pump, if so equipped, and a discharge thru-hull for overboard discharge. These would likely be closed most of the time, and the overboard discharge may actually be locked or zip-tied closed. If you find a discharge thru-hull, the hose will go straight up to a vacuum break above the water line, then to the discharge pump. From there to the y-valve which will have three hoses - the discharge and one to each tank. Mine says Forespar Marelon on it.

Thanks I will check it out. I do have overboard discharge, but am told not to use it. Still working on fuel related issue at this time.

[cpoint]

Finally got around to this problem. Here is additional info I noticed. While all is powered at random times I hear the vacuflush pump starting like some one just used the head. So question is why would that happen? Also the water in the bowl is not affected by this, basically no water flushed from head.

2nd, I did find the location of Y valve. There is a lever to one side or the other side. I do see one side the hose goes into front holding tank. I am assuming this is how it is getting the tank filled regularly with all power off (while I am away), causing tank to fill over several days with clean water. If I pull Y valve lever to other side I believe it is switching the line to rear head, is this correct? I will look at schematics, as I was confused, the Y valve goes to a T connection, one side going to front holding tank, other side of T connection to deck plate? If I switch the lever to other side same set up there. I believe one side of that hose T connection goes to rear holding tank, and other side of T connection goes to deck plate?

Also how is clean water from clean water holding tank get to the head holding tank?

should the y valve be on one side or other always? or is here a middle to not select either, as I am not planning discharging overboard? is the water leaking from discharge back into tank?

I will try to put pictures of what it looks like tomorrow.

[Viper]

If the vacuum generator runs intermittently, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If water remains in the bowl, you can eliminate the bowl seal as the cause. Check areas mentioned in earlier posts; all hose clamps, foot lever seal, duckbill valves, pump itself, toilet base, cracked hardware.

Getting lake water into the tank is only possible if;
- the tank is below water level or a siphoning action has occurred due to boat movement and..
- the seacock is leaking and water getting past the macerator and Y valve

In your case, the Y valves should be turned to the deck fitting setting, and the seacock should be shut off.

If you suspect raw water is getting in, remove the hose to the seacock and see if water is getting through. With the seacock shut off, there should be no water. You can eliminate all this by by-passing the overboard discharge system completely. Disconnect the hose to the tank at the Y valve, disconnect the hose to the deck at the Y valve and connect the two hoses together with a hose coupler, 1-1/2" I believe. You mentioned a Tee, the end result that you're looking for is a straight run from the tank to the deck fitting. Then remove the hose from the seacock, remove the barbed fitting from the seacock, and install a brass plug. Then open the seacock and LEAVE IT OPEN. Ensure the pump is disconnected at the breaker. You can either toss the Y valves and left over hoses and macerator or leave them there but I'd toss them as they'll likely contribute to bilge odours on board.

When working on black water systems, wear nitrile or latex gloves, and double up on them. Working with hardware that has come in contact with feces can pose a health risk.