Carver Owners Forum

Sometimes there is a stamped code right in the case material, could be on the top ,side and even the sides where the clamp down may be....not saying it was there just general info.

I’m also having battery issues on our new 2000 406. I had to kick in the generator to get the engines enough power to start and that was after driving it for 30 minutes.

Are all of the batteries in Carver group 31 as you mentioned?

Dweber01 wrote:Qr Bbpost I’m also having battery issues on our new 2000 406. I had to kick in the generator to get the engines enough power to start and that was after driving it for 30 minutes.

Are all of the batteries in Carver group 31 as you mentioned?

Probably....but one thing before you go further, go down there and check the water in the batteries and clean all your connections and engine grounds...never know what you get left with.

Seems like the batteries are the first thing to replace when you buy a boat.....

Dweber01 wrote:Qr Bbpost

Are all of the batteries in Carver group 31 as you mentioned?

i dont have group 31's in my 405 and i use golf cart batteries for my house bank.
you may want to check your battery selector switch under your stairs. if you are considering buying new batteries you may want to consider what type of boating you do and upgrading your house bank to a larger capacity at the same time

I got the original schematics from Carver last week for my 1996 355. In my schematics, the three bilge pumps are connected to breakers that connect to battery one position on the selector switch. This means that the pumps have a direct connection to battery one all the time. If I moved the wires to the common post of the selector switch, my pumps would be disconnected from power when I turned batteries off when I leave the boat. This is very bad. I imagine a guy could hook up some isolators that would give them power all the time from both batteries, but at $99 apiece I can’t see that happening.
In order to find out which is battery one and battery two, disconnect positive cable from a battery and check each post on switch to see which one lost voltage.. do this with the switch off.

or... if you don't want to turn twist and contort to get to the switch terminals... turn battery switch to off, disconnect one battery positive cable, turn on a 12v light and turn battery switch to one or two. whichever position supplies the 12v will be the connected battery. Mark the cables for future reference.