Carver Owners Forum

Just looking at the engines in the pictures and without checking the serial numbers, I leaning toward these are replacement engines. I base my opinion do to the spark arrestor covers on the carbs. I believe a 1980's boat and engines would have an open metal spark arrestor with out a plastic cover. I'm thinking those are 1990's engines and were change do to hours or something else years ago. Just my opinion!

For the right price, there's a buyer out there for everything, including a 2K hour boat. It's not ideal but you're considering it right? As long as you get it for a very good price, you may be able to recover your investment if you resell in a few years, again for a fair price taking hours into consideration.

One must also consider how the boat's going to be used. If you're a go fast type of boater that doesn't go anywhere without being on plane, then this may not be the boat for you as I wouldn't push the engines hard unless I had proof the hours aren't a true indication of their condition. Previous owners may have been meticulous in their maintenance habits and they may not have run them hard which could mean they still have hundreds of hours left in them. If you're planning on being a dock queen, then the hours would seem less important.

We can assume and speculate all we want about the condition of the engines but only a few diagnostic procedures will tell one way or the other whether the worrying is justified based solely on recorded hours. I mean previous owners may have been in the habit of leaving the ignition switches in the ON position for all we know. It's unlikely but possible as I'm sure we've all been there on occasion. A few tests would help determine whether there is justification for worrying about the hours; start with a compression test, note the condition of the spark plugs in the process and stick a camera in each cylinder for a visual of each combustion chamber, have a vacuum test done as it will tell you a fair bit about what's going on internally when they're running, and finally an oil analysis will paint a pretty good picture of internal component ware. Maybe all they'll need is the upper end rebuilt which wouldn't be that bad a cost.

On a final note, look for a rebuilder's tag on the engines. It's customary to put a label on a rebuild that includes their company info and honing/bore details.

newbie3 wrote:QR_BBPOST Interesting - so you guys think these are the original 2,000 hour engines huh? I've never actually seen a bilge this clean on a 1980's boat. But maybe this isn't all that suspicious?

What do you guys think about the nearly 2,000 hours on the Mercruiser 5.0L's? Seems like anything over 1,500 hours needs a rebuild. That could mean the boat needs $10,000-$20,000 of work.

Not really saying those are original, when I said they look used, I meant not recent replacements, based on the look of the bolt heads etc. In reality, in the last 20 odd years those engines could have been changed a few times, the serial numbers should tell the approximate year of the blocks, but who is to say that the originals were not just rebuilt.
I totally agree that you don't beat on old engines, especially in a boat, the rods only have so many cycles in them and that is a fact. So consider all the tips and observations that have come from the guys here......

Well.. no serial numbers left. Only thing left to try is a mechanic doing tests.

I did spot something interesting this time... in the center of the bilge, between the engines.. in a gap between batteries is a pool of motor oil. Could be from an oil change...

OK - Now I'm curious. You don't have to answer this, just being nosey. What year is it, and what is the dealer asking? The window gasket shrinkage is normal. Caulking here and there - normal for 30 years old. A pool of oil? SCARY. The dealer should get some absorbent pads in there. Coast Guard would get in a snit about that. You could call Carver. They would have the serial numbers of original engines, which may help you focus on those labels. You need the hull # for them to reference back. Anyway, everyone here has given good info. If you just want to putt around at low RPM's, it may be fun at the right price. The only way I would put ANY STRESS on those engines, is if I knew the actual hours, and had a mechanic test according to VIPER instructions above. Side note: most hour meters do not turn if the ignition is left on. Meters normally run off an oil pump connection, but I am sure there are exceptions to that. Spring is coming. er

Cooler wrote:QR_BBPOST......Side note: most hour meters do not turn if the ignition is left on. Meters normally run off an oil pump connection, but I am sure there are exceptions to that.....

There are exceptions of course but off the RUN position was more prominent in earlier vintages for which I suspect the vessel in question is. Probably late '80's

Ah no I don't mind. It's a 1988 being offered for $12k. If not for the hours I would have bought it already.

Working on scheduling a mechanic.

These look like reasonably well maintained engines. My well maintained 5.7l Mercruisers in my 79 Tollycraft 34 (which I sold last spring for a much newer Carver) looked similar. I got 3600 out of the starboard engine, and the port is still original at 4,000 hours and runs like a top. The primary failure of engines like these is from leaking or obstructed exhaust systems leading to overheating or water intrusion. Also not maintaining the raw water pumps can lead to overheating. I don't see a heat exchanger, although they are sometimes mounted remotely. If this is raw water cooled and evidence of barnacles on the shafts indicates salt water use, that scares me. I would suggest you have a mechanical survey done which includes a compression test. If the engines are in good running condition now, just pay attention to the cooling system. Check the exhaust hoses for hot spots and feel the elbows which should be no more than warm to the touch. If things are ok, I would add fresh water cooling right away, unless you plan to use it in the lake. I am more concerned about the windows, and the evident attempts to seal them. If rain water has run down on the inside, and if there is balsa or plywood structure in this boat, there is likely some rot. Have a thorough survey done on the hull and the engines, and you will at least detect the obvious items. A sea trial would be mandatory as well to see and hear how they run. Good luck with it.
Thatch in Seattle

Well that is OK news. At least they are asking a reasonable dealer price, but there is no room for repair expense. Probably can buy it for less, subject to engines & transmissions passing mechanical survey and sea trial. FYI - there is balsa coring in the structure above water line. Check with a moisture meter, any surveyor will have one. er

This is sacrilege here.. probably.. but I think I'm leaning to going forward with a Bayliner 3270 with twin Hino 110 diesels. Took it out for a sea trial today. They have more hours but it's diesel so probably mechanically sound for a good while.

What do you guys think? I really liked the Carver 3207. But this particular one.. as other have pointed out.. has little to no margin for any mechanical work.