Carver Owners Forum

Thanks for all the responses! You guy's are great! Yes, I planned on having a bag of cable ties, several flashlights, connectors, tools, etc. Final question: Can I remove the helm seat without taking the post base out? It is really secure right now and I prefer to not remove screws unless there is no other way. Does the post pop out of the base, similar to the posts that hold up the table? The post will have to come out to clear the footwell.
Viper - yes, Hydraulic steering and I will check for leaks. Thanks.
Bud - yep, lot's of room. AND, cup holders up the wazoo!
Waybomb - the good news is, the previous owner did not mess with anything other than installing the GPS. It's all from the factory. He actually never even filled the trim tab reservoir upon delivery when new. The screw that holds the cover down was still taped to the reservoir cover, with the little memo that said must be filled for operation. The surveyor got a chuckle out of that. er

On mine, the pipe comes out of the base. It is a different base than original. May not apply.
Certainly the seat comes off the post, and just work around the post.

OK. Update for those who are curious about progress. The footwell was easier to remove than I anticipated. It does slide out without taking the post out of the seat pedestal. Seat just lifts up from post. The post does not pop out of the base. Once that well is removed, there is a mini-cavern to crawl into. Surprisingly clean in there. If not for the wiring, a small person could sleep in there. I thought the buss bar for power connections would have screw type connectors, they do not. They have blade connectors, and plenty of them. So, back to the store for connectors. Did find one oddity on rudder gauge. Two connectors were rubbing together. Will insert a cardboard insulator between them as the male ends on the back of the gauge are really tight together. Maybe that will solve my rudder angle issue. Rudders are straight, but the gauge will show slightly to the starboard side. Will finish this minor project this afternoon. er

Sounds like yours is just like mine. If I were you, I'd plan on changing out those blade connector buss bars to screw terminals. I've already done that with the feed, actually installing a fuse panel to separate the circuits. It also has a negative screw buss and I've been moving the negative wires as well as I've been changing things.

The blade connectors won't fail, but they will create a bit of resistance as the terminals oxidize. You'll lose a volt or two to whatever is connected. Stuff will still work, just not as well.

Clean up your wiring and separate fuse holders with one of these from Blue Sea:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

KM & Viper. Thanks for those suggestions, you are both right! Unfortunately, this thick, aging body of mine convinced me to stick with the status quo. The good news is, there was really minor corrosion in that space. Looks like whoever the PO hired to install the GPS/Sonar in 2016, did a good clean up of the entire area when they did that job. That is consistent with the way the PO took care of Cooler before I acquired her. He did all repairs with a first class shop. Anyway, replacement cable is in, all strapped up and ready for next season. er