I read that too, but didn't get it to turn, short kick with the starter also did not help. but it ran in the end so didn't bother starting an elaborate investigation to cause and effects.
You might consider a small 'day tank' in addition to the main tanks. Keep the big ones for long trips and otherwise empty, the day tank for the short trips. Just remember to include the return hose into the same tank you're consuming from
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How did you sail this winter, did you get it all out?
I checked the tank and foud a bit of residue that I had not gotten out last year, added more poison, checked the filters. Engines run fine, pre-filters clean so apart from switching to synthetic diesel later on I'm not going to do much more about it now.
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For historical note, hopefully helpful to someone someday...MIL-S-8802 sealant is excellent for fuel tanks and just about any other uses. We use this on aircraft, just about anywhere...inside to seal fuel tanks, sealing outer surface panels. Good stuff, will last forever. Easily available online. I prefer the tube to mix & apply.
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Thanks for the tip. This is to seal things like hatches in/on the tank itself? Is it diesel/gasoline resistant?
I spent quite a lot of time to find a diesel resistant sealing. Previous owner used liquid gasket which is not only not resistant to diesel but also dripped into the tank....... I still can't comprehend the neglect for the future when constructing a tank without access/removal and thus forcing a later owner to emergency escapades like sawing-in access holes, trying to figure out where there internal anti-slosh panels are, and so on and on.
Ended up using cork with success on the manholes but a good diesel-resistant sealant is be good to have on a list.
Just a note: most water comes into the tank through the fuel cap / hose gaskets. And some say that water condenses in an less-than-full tank but I've also read users who never experienced that so I suppose the wisdom on this is up for grabs in the middle somewhere.
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Yes, inside tank in contact with fuel. On aircraft, the tanks are full of riveted joints, this is what is used as the sealant and main leak prevention.. JP4/5 and Jet A fuel is all basically diesel. There is very little,if any, shrinkage & is anti corrosive. Tack time ~4-6 hours & 24 H cure in reasonable temperatures. I've gotten it online for ~$16/ tube.