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Electronic distributor conversion? Did you bypass the ballast resistor? Most of the conversion kits want full 12 volts to work properly.

throwback2 wrote:QR_BBPOST Electronic distributor conversion? Did you bypass the ballast resistor? Most of the conversion kits want full 12 volts to work properly.

I didn't only because the instructions said don't bypass if I have one... I will try to bypass it first

How is your other engine set up, it also has the resister hooked up and is working properly correct? It's generating a spark, that means the trigger is working, it's a switch that's either on or off. It's just the spark's not getting to the plugs or not a good enough spark.

Don't loosen the distributor and change the timing. Find out first why you're not getting a good spark at the plugs. Your low voltage circuit is working and so is the high voltage side from the coil or you wouldn't get a spark at your cap as you described. The problem is likely from and including the distributor components; rotor or cap to and including the wires and plugs, or a voltage issue as I mentioned before.

I take it the tool you used to check spark is hooked up at the end of each plug wire where they would hook up to the plugs? Did you check all plugs to see if any are firing?

Swap the cap and rotor from the working engine to the other and see if the problem follows the parts.

Personally, with the current situation, I'd put the original-type points and condensor in and set them up properly. The engine will run fine with those, and it's easier to set them up to a "known good" condition to get the engine running.

With points, it's VERY EASY to check for a good spark. All you have to do is turn the ignition on, loosen the distributor, and move it back and forth. You'll get spark each time the points open. You do have to set the timing after you do that, but you should be checking the timing anyways on a poorly running engine.

Once it's running FINE, then I'd consider doing the upgrade to an electronic ignition module. That way you're not questioning if it's something in the module or the install (resistor/no_resistor) when trying to get the engine to run properly.

I upgraded both my distributors to Prestolite electronic units, but the engines were running fine before the switch. Much easier not having to mess with the points for years after. However, you still need to check/change the rotor and cap every now and then and also check/maintain that mechanical advance mechanism.

ok i have to replaced the starboard engine distributer any idea what its rotation is or doest it even matter ... any one know a good replacement

Not sure about which replacement for that engine, but you can check/verify rotation by looking at the plug wires and comparing that to the firing order.

In many "reverse rotation" engines, they still used the same distributor because the cam and distributor rotated the same regardless of the crankshaft rotation. On a normal rotation they used a chain between the crank and can, so they both rotated the same direction, but on a "reverse rotation" they used gears between the crank and cam which caused the cam (and hence the distributor) to rotate opposite the crank.