Carver Owners Forum

Phrancus wrote:

Ctmangrum wrote:QR_BBPOST I just changed the fuel/water separators a week ago.

problem occured after that?

Yes. Ill probably change the fuel water separators again just to eliminate that as the cause.

Ctmangrum wrote:QR_BBPOST

Phrancus wrote:

Ctmangrum wrote:QR_BBPOST I just changed the fuel/water separators a week ago.

problem occured after that?

Yes. Ill probably change the fuel water separators again just to eliminate that as the cause.

When you do , dump the contents of each one out in separate containers and compare what if anything was trapped inside.

Do you a mechanical fuel pumps or have they been upgraded to electric ?

Steve2020 wrote:Could be plugged tank vent line. Quick check is when engine stops open fuel cap to release negative pressure then try to restart engine, spiders love to plug vents. Happened to me twice.

Run the boat without the gas cap. If it runs without shutting down, you found your problem.

So this is what I've done so far, I cleaned the carb and points, checked the lines for any screens and it doesn't look like I have any nor do I have an anti-siphon that I see, but I also didn't check all the way behind the engine. I was going to check the spark plugs just because and ended up breaking one so I went ahead and change those out. They were about three years old and didn't look so good anyway. Checked the fuel vent plug. I ran it in the slip at different RPMs for quite a while and never had any issue. I guess only time will tell.

Regarding it running hot, my gauges seem to be working OK. They are pretty accurate and matched my infrared thermal gun when I shot the engine. I've seen the gauges get hot before when I was in the yard so I know they work. I appreciate all the advice. I'm sure I will be posting here again

I've tried to post a response three times so I don't know what's happening. This is what I've done so far, clean the carb and points, check the lines for any screens or even an anti-siphon and I didn't see one but I also didn't check all the way behind the engine. Changed all the plugs just because it was time anyway. Ran it in the slip at different RPMs for quite a while had no issues. Does the V Dr. have an actual audible alarm if it overheats? Not just the warning light on the dash? Would Cut to cut off? Just curious

Ctmangrum wrote:.... nor do I have an anti-siphon that I see, but I also didn't check all the way behind the engine. ....

You absolutely should have anti-siphon check valves. They would be mounted right at the tank, where the feed to the engine(s) goes. It's just about 1.5 to 2" long and just looks like another fitting in the line. If you don't have them, then a previous owner removed them and you should put new ones where they belong. They are required for a reason.

Ctmangrum wrote:I ran it in the slip at different RPMs for quite a while and never had any issue. I guess only time will tell. ...

If it's a fuel-flow-related issue, then you could run it at the dock all day long and not see the issue, but once put under load it will show up. It's unclear from your earlier posts if this only happens when you're under load and if it takes less time to happen if you're under a bigger load (or running a higher speed). Usually, if it's a fuel-starvation problem the engine will lose power for a few seconds before cutting completely out, but you'd have to be observant to notice it.

If it's not fuel-flow related, it could be electrical. When running at the dock, you might want to jiggle the engine harness including the wires that go all the way to the helm. It's possible you have a corroded connection or a bad wire that acts up when you're cruising. I notice you said you have "carb and points"... does that mean you also have a ballast resistor too? If so, you might want to test that or swap it to the other engine and see if the problem moves with it. If there's a break in it, they can heat up and lose connection, but then cool down and work OK again.

Ctmangrum wrote:QR_BBPOST... Does the V Dr. have an actual audible alarm if it overheats? Not just the warning light on the dash? Would Cut to cut off? Just curious

Not sure on that model (maybe others can weigh in), but the v-drives sometimes have a pressure alarm which may be just a light. The light should be off at any normal above-idle speeds but might be on shortly after starting the engines or at idle. There may or may not be an audible alarm connected to it. If you lose pressure when you're under load, then it can heat up and overheat, so the pressure indication should happen BEFORE it gets hot.

There could ALSO be a temperature alarm. On many of the Crusaders, the transmission temperature alarm was an option that could have been added by the manufacturer or any subsequent owner. However, usually a temperature alarm will NOT cause an engine to shutdown (at least not in the older motors... the newer ones with a computer could definitely go into a low-power mode or shutdown). In the older motor cases, the alarm is to notify the skipper and give him the choice to determine what's best to do... slow down or shut down.

So i changed the fuel filter and saw a little crap in there but nothing too bad. I did get inconsistent readings on my engine coil so ill change that out and see if that helps. Cheap maintenance. We'll see.

Ok, so if this happens again ....maybe you have done this but if not.....as soon as it shuts down, turn key off and go down and look in the carb and operate the throttle to see if there is fuel being squirted in, you may have to pump a few times as there can be fuel left in the accelerator pump even if the carb is dry.....that should let you know if the fuel supply was the issue.

I had to order the coil but didn't think about the distributor wire not fitting. It was an older coil that had a new replacement part # but looked a little different where you connected the cap wire. The old one had metal around the connection and the new one just at the center at the bottom. Should I be concerned?

Coils