Need Help - Leaking Toilet

[Viper]

I've never used that style cutter for plastic so I can't comment on the results. I'm not a fan of the straight blade cutters either, my cutter is like a set of pliers using a triangular blade. I find that because a sharp point pierces first it doesn't distort the shape of the tubing. I use it for hard and soft plastic tubing, can't remember the brand or where I got it though.

[Viper]

No downside that I can think of off the bat, it would be a good upgrade.

[Viper]

If you're going to install several quick-connects, buy yourself a tubing end dressing tool that tapers the edge of the tube after you cut it. There is a style with 3 different size reamers. This is a step that many people ignore, and what usually happens is that the sharp edge left after the cut can nick the o-ring inside the fitting causing it to leak. The tool is easy to use and the bevel that this tool puts on the end of the tube helps prevent that from happening.

BTW, the Flair-it fittings you currently have I find are getting harder to come by. Not everyone carries them now so it's a good idea to replace with quick connects in areas you can access and are currently working close to. At the very least, look for those fittings now and get a few spares while you still can as there's no telling how easy they will be to source in the near future.

[tonyp444]

Ok got the new toilet ordered and now I have (another) dumb question. The backflow protection valve / solenoid needs to be secured by screws. Can I just screw it to the bulkhead, similar to how the water pump is fastened in the picture I posted? Do I need to confirm it is ignition protected, and otherwise plumb it so that the solenoid is located in the head instead? I was assuming I’d put it in the engine compartment but I’m not sure if that is appropriate here. The owners manual and installation instructions for the toilet do not say anything about location of the solenoid and whether it is ignition protected. It just says to run appropriate 1/2” water line to it, and the solenoid must be mounted in a secure dry location.

[tonyp444]

Disregard, I found this on a separate technical data sheet. Looks like the whole system is ignition protected.

IMG_6607.jpeg

I think it will be a lot cleaner install with the solenoid in the engine compartment. Anything special I need to do with screwing it to the bulkhead? Am I good to drive a short stainless screw through that heat shield and into the bulkhead, like what was done for the water pump? I just get anxious making holes in something and don’t want to do anything stupid. The shower wall is directly behind the bulkhead so obviously any screws need to be pretty short.

[tonyp444]

Ok, another question has come up as I’m digging into the wiring. This is what the wiring harness looked like for the old toilet.

IMG_6604.jpeg

I was testing the main positive and negative wires (the big 4AWG) expecting them to be wired to the “MACERATOR TOILET” breaker on the DC panel. However, I was getting 12v even with all breakers turned off. The only way I could cut power to those wires was by turning off the battery switch. I’m certainly not an electrical expert but that doesn’t seem right that the wiring would be bypassing the panel. Am I missing something here? Maybe because the toilet required such large gauge wire, they wired it directly to the battery with an inline fuse? If that’s the case, I’m confused on what, if anything, is connected to the toilet switch on the breaker panel.

I’m thinking for the new toilet I’ll just start over fresh and rewire it. Hopefully the PO didn’t put something random on the toilet breaker.

[km1125]

What size (rating) is the "Macerator Toilet" breaker? Is it possible that's just for the control circuit(s), which would be a smaller overall draw, and the bulk of the power that's on the 4GA wires goes directly to the battery switch (via a larger current-protection device)?

That would be similar to how many anchor winch configurations, where there are "high current" and "low current" circuits.

[tonyp444]

Source of the post What size (rating) is the "Macerator Toilet" breaker? Is it possible that's just for the control circuit(s), which would be a smaller overall draw, and the bulk of the power that's on the 4GA wires goes directly to the battery switch (via a larger current-protection device)?

That would be similar to how many anchor winch configurations, where there are "high current" and "low current" circuits.

That makes sense, I’ll check the rating next chance I get. I bet you’re right that it was a “high current” and “low current” with the two smaller wires being low. The weird thing is, based on the wiring diagram in the owners manual, there wasn’t a separate circuit for the controls, it was just a solenoid relay between the motor and controls (i.e. there was no need to power anything on a separate circuit). So I’m confused on why there was a low current circuit wired to the panel if that’s what it is. I suppose it’s very possible it was wired differently than the diagram. I’ll pull the panel cover and do some more testing. Thank you!!

[tonyp444]

So the plot thickens. There is no circuit wired to the Macerator Toilet breaker at all, and I tested every single breaker for the two additional orange wires in the harness for the old toilet. Nothing.

Since there is no circuit on the toilet breaker, I think I just cap all 4 of the old wires and mark them as abandoned, and wire a brand new circuit to the toilet breaker. Is that the way to go?

[bud37]

Good idea........but you need to disconnect the other ends of those wires IMO.

Now if you find the other end of the large cable wires, perhaps you could use them as a feed/ new circuit to a bus/panel in the toilet and put a breaker in there. Those cables will carry good loads and are already there.

Just an idea/ different view.