Carver Owners Forum

bud37 wrote:Qr Bbpost OK...now when you press the start button does the starter solenoid make....then you should have a signal to the starter then power back to the breakers.....the neutral switch is in this line I believe ( check continuity thru it )...hard to think about when not there or looking at a schematic.....that power also goes to the alt I believe....do you have this hooked up? Gotta get power to those two breakers...ECU and fuel.... Holy s... wheres the tylenol.
Geez I don't know if this a help or not....

Thanks Bud, there is a relay inside the engine mounted breaker box. When I turn on the ignition switch in the cabin, on the working starboard motor, that relay is triggered, and 12v is sent to all 3 10a breakers. When I turn the ignition switch on in the cabin for the port motor, I get nothing. There is a purple excite wire that goes to that relay that's not getting power. The relay works (swapped it), but the boat is not suppling voltage to the excite wire to trigger it. That seems to be my issue. The cabin switch appears to be working, but the output from the cabin switch is a fat red wire (I'd guess 8 gauge). I don't know where it turns to purple, or why it's not working. There is a purple wire at the helm, wired to the "ignition off" switch, but putting 12v to that wire does nothing for the purple excite wire in the engine compartment.

That diagram I posted , the more I look at it, doesn't match up here( newer version ).......can you follow that purple wire to the engine plug......disconnect the boat side plug and the other end of the purple at the button then check for continuity thru all the pins and see if any match.Then go from the engine side plug to the relay.....what colors are on the oil pressure switch , not the sender?

Maybe an explanation of what I am thinking here.......from my side without a correct wiring diagram this is very confusing, thus why the continuity checks to verify the wires you are identifying as the problem thru the pins on the connectors...that is how I would do it, just keep working back ( Im old )...sometimes the connectors are the problem....again good luck man, you'll find it.

tomschauer wrote:Qr Bbpost Just checking to be sure....
If you are checking continuity /vs voltage, you need to remove the wires from one side of the breaker or switch. Otherwise you will always read continuity through the breaker or switch via the end device to ground unless the end device has failed.

Thanks Tom, I removed a wire from the breaker to test it. For reasons unknown, I'm not getting power to the relay that is supposed to supply power to the breakers.

bud37 wrote:Qr Bbpost Maybe an explanation of what I am thinking here.......from my side without a correct wiring diagram this is very confusing, thus why the continuity checks to verify the wires you are identifying as the problem thru the pins on the connectors...that is how I would do it, just keep working back ( Im old )...sometimes the connectors are the problem....again good luck man, you'll find it.

Thanks for the vote of confidence....

The wiring diagram that you posted is the closest I've seen thus far. I don't have a 16 pin, TBI diagram at all, and can't seem to find one.

Plan for today is try to do a continuity test on the wire out of the cabin mounted switch panel. I believe it's the wire that goes to the closed circuit "Ignition off" switch at the helm. The ignition off switch is jumped (from the factory) over to the ignition on switch. That's where it gets power from the red, to send to the yellow and red wire that goes to the starter solenoid.

What does the "battery parallel" switch at the helm do?

The top switch here with the yellow and red wire is the back side of the "ignition" switch. The switch next to it, just above my thumb is the "ignition stop" switch.

The parallel switch...if it is like the older predecessors, all it does is give you the ability to put both side batteries in parallel in case one is dead for starting, basically a trigger to a solenoid that mated the two batteries....each engine would be wired with its own dedicated battery....real easy to test its function.

390Express wrote:Qr Bbpost

bud37 wrote:Qr Bbpost
There is a 50a main engine breaker, a 10a "ECU breaker, a 10a fuel pump breaker, and a 10a ECU/TBI breaker. (does anyone know why the ECU has two breakers?) The 50a engine breaker and top 10a ECU breaker both have 12v both sides, the fuel pump breaker and bottom ECU/TBI breaker have no power.

The reason you have three breakers: The TBI (injectors) get fed directly with power though a fuse or breaker. The ECU grounds the other side of each injector to activate it, so the ECU never really applies power to the injectors, just grounds them. Similar issue on the fuel pump.

So with your push-button start and stop, I'm wondering if you have a "latching" relay somewhere. When you push "start", it engages the starter but also engages the latching relay. When you push "stop" it disengages the latching relay. The ECU stays powered anytime the ignition breaker is on. Does that sound plausible?

390Express wrote:Qr Bbpost There is a purple excite wire that goes to that relay that's not getting power. The relay works (swapped it), but the boat is not suppling voltage to the excite wire to trigger it. That seems to be my issue. The cabin switch appears to be working, but the output from the cabin switch is a fat red wire (I'd guess 8 gauge). I don't know where it turns to purple, or why it's not working. There is a purple wire at the helm, wired to the "ignition off" switch, but putting 12v to that wire does nothing for the purple excite wire in the engine compartment.

Check the continuity of the "ignition off" switches on both engines. I'm wondering if these are "normally closed" switches that allow that relay to be energized. When you push the button it OPENS the circuit and kills the relay

km1125 wrote:Qr Bbpost

390Express wrote:Qr Bbpost There is a purple excite wire that goes to that relay that's not getting power. The relay works (swapped it), but the boat is not suppling voltage to the excite wire to trigger it. That seems to be my issue. The cabin switch appears to be working, but the output from the cabin switch is a fat red wire (I'd guess 8 gauge). I don't know where it turns to purple, or why it's not working. There is a purple wire at the helm, wired to the "ignition off" switch, but putting 12v to that wire does nothing for the purple excite wire in the engine compartment.

Check the continuity of the "ignition off" switches on both engines. I'm wondering if these are "normally closed" switches that allow that relay to be energized. When you push the button it OPENS the circuit and kills the relay

KM, you are correct on both accounts. The "latching relay" is the relay inside the engine mounted circuit breaker, that isn't receiving power from the "control" or "trigger" wire. There is a fat red wire (battery) that goes to the relay, and a "control" or "trigger" wire (thinner purple wire) that should provide power to this relay when the "ignition" button is pressed. That's how the working, starboard side operates. Currently the fat red wire has 12.5v, but I get no power to the trigger or control, no matter what I do at the helm. Could the oil pressure sending unit, or otherwise be interfering with its operation?

When I press the "ignition" button, I do not get 12v to the "trigger" or control wire, and the fuel pump and ECU/TBI breakers are not activated. I don't know how to get that purple wire activated. Equally maddening is, there are several purple wires that go to the Ignition off switch (that is a closed switch, power to which is killed by pushing the button, opening the circuit), but when I bypass the "ignition" and "ignition off" switches, and run power right to the purple wires, I get nothing back at the engine mounted breakers.

Are you sure you're supposed to get 12v on the purple wire to activate, or could it need to be grounded to complete the circuit?

How many terminals are connected on your latching relay... it should be 4 or 6 wires.

I forget if we discussed this before... but the neutral safety switch should also be somewhere in that circuit for the "start" button... but perhaps just on the line to the solenoid.

km1125 wrote:Qr Bbpost Are you sure you're supposed to get 12v on the purple wire to activate, or could it need to be grounded to complete the circuit?

How many terminals are connected on your latching relay... it should be 4 or 6 wires.

I forget if we discussed this before... but the neutral safety switch should also be somewhere in that circuit for the "start" button... but perhaps just on the line to the solenoid.

I believe there are 6 wires on the latching relay. How can I bypass the neutral safety switch and oil pressure sending unit switch? Can I just disconnect the wires, tape them together and close the circuit, or should it be open to bypass it?