Carver Owners Forum

mjk1040 you are correct. The material is lighter than you typical canvass and has a rubber like coating on it. I purchased it for $2,500 about 7 years ago. The one I just put on my newer boat wasn't much more. That is just for the cover.

You will need about 12 or more 2 X 4's and ratchet straps to triangulate the ridge rail and the uprights. The ridge rail runs the length of the boat from the aft hard top, over the fly bridge and then transitions down to the pulpit.

It is supported by 2 X 4 uprights that go up from the deck to the ridge rail. That ratchet straps attach to the deck cleats and then to an eye bolt that is screwed in under the ridge. There is an "A" frame on the aft hard top. I also use 15 ' ratchet straps under the hull, from side too side, to tighten and hold the cover down. It is very strong and can deal with all the wind and snow that northern Ontario can throw at it. The cover comes in three pieces and weighs approximately 80 pounds. This is a picture of my new boat and the rib I used and a rear view showing the "A" frame.

Is that 80#'s per section or are you saying all three sections are just 80#'s? The price for the cover is very reasonable, wonder how I could get one down here in the Finger Lakes for our 1998 355? The other thing I like is that you do not have to remove all your canvas before covering. I'm going to email Genco Marine and see if they will make me a custom cover system complete with ribbing and for how much!

The entire cover is 80 Lbs. As for the ribbing, it is easy to do. As you can see it even stays on when the boat is upside down. Contact jonathan@gencomarine.com.

The height of the "A" frame on the hard top is half the width of the hard top. That ridge would be level to the floor of your fly bridge. You would transition it down above where your windshield is and angle the ridge down to 30-36 inches above your pulpit rail. You then bring the uprights up from the deck to meet the ridge rail. Put eye bolts into the bottom of the ridge rail and strap in to the deck cleats to triangulate the structure.

There would be three uprights on your front deck, one up from the floor of your fly bridge and the "A" frame on your aft hardtop against the radar arch.

As you see in this picture, I have a hardtop over my fly bridge as well and it is not load bearing, so I worked around it. On your boat you would need to remove your fly bridge side curtains and flip your canvass back to the arch. The aft deck canvass can stay up.

Jonathan would prefer to measure each boat for its own custom cover, but maybe there are other options. My old cover would fit your boat. They are the virtually the same boat.The only issue would be that the rib would have to be made the same dimensions.

if you could store your boat upside down like in the picture, you wouldn't need to cover it.
Hey, maybe I'm on to something!

I was able to figure the pic out and I added a rear view as well to show the "A" frame.

Stopped by this weekend to check on the boat. Shrink (which has been reused for 5 years now) was still on and in good shape. Had to reset one of the supports underneath because the bottom slid out of position. Put a line on it to hopefully hold it from moving around again. Really hate that streaking that runs off the shrink. I keep thinking about putting a couple feet of cheap plastic to cover the area between the shrink and the waterline but didn't do it again this year. Just means more cleanup when the temps warm up.

Charged the batteries too, but they were all still in good shape (12.6+). I used the "equalize" setting on my inverter. I also ran the inverter with a 500W load for a few seconds to 'wake up' the chemistry in the batteries, then recharged them.

Where the heck is the snow, thats just not right.....

km, u do this on and off all by urself or do u have a lot of help? I'm thinking of trying this for next season! Saving $500.00 each fall is not a bad idea in my book. Rather spend it on fuel! LOL!

bud37 wrote:QR_BBPOST Where the heck is the snow, thats just not right.....

Ya what up wit dat?

mjk1040 wrote:QR_BBPOST km, u do this on and off all by urself or do u have a lot of help? I'm thinking of trying this for next season! Saving $500.00 each fall is not a bad idea in my book. Rather spend it on fuel! LOL!

I have done it myself several years (both the removing part and the reinstalling part. Sometimes I have someone else to help and that does make it a bit easier. By myself I can do it in less than two hours and that includes all the tie-downs.