Carver Owners Forum

What did you use to cut through the fiberglass? Looks like it would have been tight around those corners.

km1125 wrote:QR_BBPOST I used a Fein oscillating cutter with a round toothed cutter to make those cuts. Makes a very thin cut and easily go around those corners.

I used a Fein oscillating tool with a round toothed cutter to make those cuts. Makes a very thin cut and easily go around those corners. With the scraper attachment it's also easy to remove any balsa that's still epoxied to the bottom composite layer without risking a hole or gouge.

More pics of the deck core to come next week- but I was able to make progress on my new steps yesterday:

Wow Ben, those steps look great! Were they pretty gray before? I have to do this same project, but hoping to do them on board in the frame, taping off the aluminum. What do ya think? Are you using Sikkens Cetol stain? Which shade is that? Sikkens recommends 5 to 7 coats. Thanks! er

Cooler, that is actually all new wood as my original steps, what parts of it that were original, were too far gone to refinish. I went with White Oak as teak in the correct dimensions was near impossible to source. If it doesn't hold up I'll make new ones again.... We'll see.

I'm using General Finishes DTHP Oil Based Penetrating Wood Stain (Danish Teak) and General Finishes Outdoor Oil (Clear), one coat of stain and 5 coats of clear.

Got it. I did see the oak grain after I wrote the request. My teak is still in good shape structurally, but is totally weathered out. The Admiral has been whining about it, so I should just get it done. I'm going to use Sikkens. I saw some samples of refurbished teak and they did get the color back. Want to do something that is more than 1 season fix. Thanks for the reply! er

When we were restoring our 3697, after it had sat on the hard for ten years, our bridge steps needed refurbishing.
Took them all apart, bought some TeKa cleaner, got rid of the grey, then sanded and sanded and sanded, got them nice and smooth, then took my time with Sikkens, and sanding between coats.

Been 5 years now, and still look as good as the day I reinstalled them

I'm confident/hopeful that my choice of wood and finish will last me much more than a year. Especially since my boat is in a covered slip and should only get wet a few dozen days per year. My biggest worry is that I'm happy with the look of the wood as compared to the original teak so if anyone has a source for the proper sized teak please let me know.

My boat, when I received it, only had steps on the starboard side so one of the most important projects to the Admiral was to rectify that situation to ease access to the upper deck and cockpit!

Below is my progress this week on my core replacement. This took place over several very long days, I'll share some things that I learned through the process for those who may want to attempt this in the future.


New Core being fitted:


Top skins prepped and reinstalled:


Side Deck out:


And finally side deck back in:



I will now begin the process of sanding the edges, fiber glassing over the seams left from the cuts, and then fairing, top coating and new non-skid all over. At this point I feel that the work is about half done but it feels good to have solid deck under foot again!

Are the holes in the skin for counter sinking screws and you apply fairing over them?? Following this project carefuly

Never though about re-using the top skins. I've only seen folks use new glass over the repair. That's an interesting approach but don't know why it wouldn't be a good idea!!

Looks like on the bow sections you feathered the edges before reinstalling the skins, but didn't on the side deck. Any particular reason? Also, how would you feather the remaining deck to match?