Carver Owners Forum

I am thinking of making a square frame out of Azex vinyl wood, then close the front, and cut a 10” round hole in it to place a vent tube to run down to the cabin vent. Yes, there will be a bit of leakage around the sides, but it would then use 90% cabin air and not too much bilge air.

My concern would be after your modification there is not enough air flow to keep the unit cool? Maybe a return air fan would have to be installed to make sure enough air reaches the condenser. Are you sure that in front of the aft berth there is not a screened cabin air vent? Our 1998 355 has one there for the aft unit and one under the galley steps for the salon unit. I'd try just placing a fan in front of the condenser as the unit is now to see if I noticed an increase in the units output. Maybe just increasing air flow around the condenser would remedy some of the issues.

I looked at it hard and fast this AM. I am going to go the route of trying to seal all the spaces to the bilge with possibly insulation. I may have to change it out each year, but that will allow some extra air in, but also make it pull through the filter and hole in the aft cabin bed. Best solution I can think of right now.

My aft AC is underneath the bed, and my return is in the foot end of the bed. If you go this route, get an actual return grill that you can slide a filter into. I use those metal mesh screens for my filters.

I have a grill cut in under the aft berth, and use an air filter form a furnace for it.

Not sure what your whole layout under the berth looks like. Do you have water tanks or other stuff under there too?

You may be able to use some of that stuff as part of your barrier. Get some closed-cell foam blocks (like 2" stuff) that you can cut to shape and cordon off the section where the A/C unit is located, instead of trying to seal every hole that goes into the bilge.

SUPER IDEA! Yes, I have the water tank starboard, which acts as barrier. I LIKE that idea!

The A/C arrived. I did my pre game and fabricated the collar for the TEE splitter I had, so it fits perfectly. I got some shims to shim the A/C up so the condensate flows towards the drain. Removal, clean up and install tomorrow. Should be easy as that direct replacement looks like it will be worth the extra $500.00 over a different unit. Cheers, and look for the finale in the "completed projects" page. Also installing the EV 200 Auto Pilot Sunday, readying for our 10 days away in 2 weeks. Lots to do, so I am off like a herd of turtles!

Saturday I took out the old, installed the new. The old was a disaster, so I wasn’t even interested in trying to salvage it. OUT it went. Installed the new, with a slight pitch to the stern so the condensate would flow properly. Ran the new communications cable and control, wired up, and......NOTHING! I had power to the board, but no communications. I checked, tested and looked, finally I had to walk away and go home. I emailed the seller from EBAY (thecoolstore11) and even though it was a Saturday, he shot me a message right back asking me to call him on his cell. He said, “Worry not you are in good hands and we will get you up and running!” I called and we spoke. He asked a few questions, “did I have the breaker off when I connected the new controller? Did I try both input slots for the controller wire? “ Then he hit me with and elementerary question, “Did I try the old controller communications cable?” I was a bit taken aback, because that is what I did NOT try!. I got the old cable out of the dumpster, and spliced it together, as I had to cut to remove. ONLY Carver would take a cable from the stern area, run it mid ship, then turn it around to go back! I got her, plugged into the board, then the control, and BINGO! She fired right up. A BAD CABLE. Seller said he would send a new cable out next day air on Monday. I was very appreciative, but told him to send just regular Priority. WHen I finish up today photos will be in the finished project center. Auto Pilot today!

I kinda had the same issue when I put in the new unit (different brand) The connection to the thermostat is what seems like a standard network RJ45 connector cable and I did not bother to reroute the new one. Did not work. Obviously the internal cables are connected differently to the connectors in my case as it worked flawlessly after the supplied cable was installed. Glad to hear it was an easy fix.