Carver Owners Forum

cpoint, while you have the hatch next to the water heater stripped, check the ground on the water heater itself. On the 2001 356 I had, the WH had developed a leak believed to be created by a detached grounding wire. Regardless it had to be replace and that hatch with a 1"x 1" notch cut in the hatch seating lip was the exit point. I'd hate for you to go through all that work and then potentially scratch you handy work after the fact.

How was it removing the carpet? I want to tackle the job on my current boat but have nightmares about getting the carpet up.

Dan

TonyC wrote:Qr Bbpost I also like the second photo. May need to lighten it up a bit (wife can make this call) but having the galley and salon floor area one continuous layout looks good. I will need to have the holding tank hatch which does not appear in the second photo. The carpet does get grungy easily and I may be able to shampoo the carpet one last time. I do have a soft area of the floor at the bottom of the steps. I believe that there is an aluminum brace underneath that needs attention. Will have to wait till next winter's layup for this issue and replacing the carpet.

Sorry for the delayed reply. Caught-up with my prop issues.

Anyway, the soft spot is not at the foot of the stairs but probably at the same location as SanJuanDreamer's. There is an aluminum frame that runs aft of the fresh water tank. The attached pic shows it. Not so much soft as floor board flexes and stops when hitting the frame. I'd consider strengthening this prior to adding new flooring.

Same as I have, but with the addition of a board running over the top of the gauge wires.
Its about 4in in width and 1/2thichness covering good portion of the tank access.
I pain in the rear trying to get to the gauge wires.

DanM wrote:Qr Bbpost cpoint, while you have the hatch next to the water heater stripped, check the ground on the water heater itself. On the 2001 356 I had, the WH had developed a leak believed to be created by a detached grounding wire. Regardless it had to be replace and that hatch with a 1"x 1" notch cut in the hatch seating lip was the exit point. I'd hate for you to go through all that work and then potentially scratch you handy work after the fact.

How was it removing the carpet? I want to tackle the job on my current boat but have nightmares about getting the carpet up.

Dan

Dan, Thanks will look into that. Carpet was fairly easy to remove from glued parts (over fiberglass), wooden parts were just stapled, which was pain in the rear end. They used tiny staples, ton of them and hard to remove. Carpet was crappy, so not fun, but not too difficult. I think we found the flanks we like, basically we are going with same color wood like, but same color as the original carpet. We did not want it to look like same wood flooring (color wise) as the walls. So I am still debating weather to re-cut the hatch covers or make adjustments to existing by adding edges to make up the loss from carpet thickness. I'll update as I progress.

Check out loneseal and padding from Plasteak. The padding levels the floor. Prevents transfer. Glue down. Easy install. DIY. About $9.00 sq ft. Many colors to choose from.

Ron

quickdecision wrote:Qr Bbpost loneseal

Ron thanks, I had not seen that before, looks good.

SanJuanDreamer wrote:Qr Bbpost Same as I have, but with the addition of a board running over the top of the gauge wires.
Its about 4in in width and 1/2thichness covering good portion of the tank access.
I pain in the rear trying to get to the gauge wires.

Hi SanJuanDreamer,

Since we have the same model and year, surprised I do not have the same board. I 'm sure it would be a pain to work around. I do know that I'm going to reinforce all soft spots prior to laying down new flooring. Will only get more problematic and fixing after the new flooring placed would be most difficult.

TonyC

I am in the process of replacing my carpet and wood floor on my 2002 Mariner 350.

Cool. Now the fun part begins.

Looking forward to seeing your work...