Carver Owners Forum

Yes, you are correct. I have one of those. Works great! Warm engine is way better for extraction. I also rent the pump to other DIY boaters. $10, or $15 for 2 engines. My unit is paid for using that rental rate. er

Whether you do it in the fall or the spring, you should always run the engine and get it up to temperature before you change the oil. I would prefer to actually take it out on the lake and get the engine up to speed and stir all that oil up in the crankcase before draining it out. It's not going to hurt anything running the engine in the spring for a couple hours before you do the oil change. I would also prefer NOT to have a "new change" just prior to launch as you don't want any complications at that point, i.e, "I don't have oil pressure, was it something I did during the oil change or is it something new" while you're trying to launch. Same in the fall. I wouldn't wait for the day you're headed to the hoist to do the oil change, I'd do it the weekend before or a couple days before and get it out of the way.

And that heavy-duty oil change system is nice. I have pulled oil via the small tube that fits down the dipstick tube and it works fine, just takes a bit longer. Definitely better when the oil is warmed up a bit.

AlexB wrote:QR_BBPOST I am planning to purchase this, from the look of it the clear pipe goes into the dip stick.

https://marinepartssource.com/heavy-dut ... pEQAvD_BwE

wow, I like that thing. I constructed it myself with a pump and a cannister. I learned: use transparent pipe as mentioned earlier. Also: construct something to fixate the pump and piping. To prevent it from popping out and spilling, and to make it possible to concentrate/have your hands free for the job at hand (rather than balancing, reaching for the switch, the battery clamp pops off due to a twist in the cable and such). I would also use a cannister that is big enough to hold everything and introduce a way to measure how much you extracted.

I found a weak pump easier to use to keep control and prevent it from sucking air at the end when the oil needs to sink to the pipe.

The big pump was promoted (or demoted) to become a diesel pump.

Another question, I am planning to blow out all my water lines with a compressor, I know some people say its overkill especially if I am going to run antifreeze into the lines, but I would rather do both than have a cracked water line.
I have a compressor that I use with nail guns. I also bought a winterization RV blowout plug. I read that the pressure should not exceed 40psi. Is that correct or should it be lower?

40 PSI is fine and you're probably ok with anything up to about 60.

Personally, I'd blow the lines empty first, then introduce some antifreeze and blow that through. You don't need very much at all that way and you're ensuring that any antifreeze left in the system would be in the low spots.

If you're introducing the air in the dockside water inlet, then make sure you get antifreeze into the pump and strainer/screen, as those are BEFORE where the dockside connection ties into the system.

Hmmm.. I am not sure where the pump and strainer for dockside water.. Any ideas? Dockside water comes in on the starboard side its the corner where the master bathroom is and there isn't really access to it in the bathroom.

There isn't a pump for dockside water, and if there is a strainer it would be right at the connection (like right inside where the washer is). What I'm saying is that the dockside connection ties into the potable water system AFTER your potable pump and whatever filter/strainer it has (usually on the input side of the pump so that any debris in the tank doesn't get into the pump).

So if you're blowing out the system from the dockside connection it's not going to blow the water out of the pump and strainer. You just need to make sure those are properly winterized as well.

Sorry km I am confused. I thought there is one water pump that creates pressure in the system and pushes water either from the tank or dockside if connected. Are you saying that dockside water is not running through the pump?

If you're using the shore water connection (dockside) then you're getting water pressure from the city. In that case, you don't need to have the boats potable water pump running at all, nor have the water tank filled. Once you disconnect from the shore water supply, if you still want water and water pressure THEN you need the water tank filled and the potable water pump running.

Sometimes the potable water pump is set to a higher pressure than the shore water connection provides. In that case, even if you have the shore water hooked up, you might still be using the water from the onboard water tank unless you shut down the potable water pump.

Here is a standard diagram how most boats have their potable water setup. You can see the shore water connection (on the port side amidships) in this diagram and where it ties into the plumbing AFTER where the potable water pump is. This might help visualize how the system works.

Yes this helps a lot. Thank you..