Carver Owners Forum

Oh I'm not doubting it, I see it all the time too. But I have also seen it steadily improve over the years as well. I'm optimistic that the trend for being more safety aware in this industry is improving rather than the other way around. Does it still happen? of course, people take shortcuts all the time. Those people just haven't had a serious indecent yet or an inspector catch them in the act. But one day....

Not targeting any specific group but in my observations, I've found over the years that ignorance or turning a blind eye in this particular area seems to be more prominent with the operators that have been around for forever, and the younger guys just having started out. I suspect the old dogs know better but are just too suborn to change their ways, after all they've been doing it that way for 50 years and "nothing's ever happened." The younger guys seem to either not realize the implications, cave under pier pressure, or have a cavalier/invincible attitude. I've been around a lot of marinas too and the reaction I get when I point out a safety concern usually falls into one of the above personalities. All I know is, if I'm around to do a job, and I don't get my way with proper safety practices, I'm out of there. Not only do I not want to be witness to a terrible accident that I may never get out of my mind, I don't want to have to be part of the legal fallout.

Update:. Pulled boat and repaired starboard exhaust thruhull. There was evidence someone tried repairing previously. The outside flange had a different sealant on the outer edges. Not a well throughout repair. We removed the four fasteners and broke the seal, loosened the hose clamps that attached the thruhull to the fiberglass exhaust pipe. This allowed the thruhull exhaust to be pulled out from the hull. Removed all caulking and cleaned surfaces with acetone. Re-caulked with 4200 quick set. Relaunched after a couple hours. No leaks. Will let boat sit a couple days before running on plane.
Now the bad news. Boat is still getting water in mid and forward bilges. Not nearly as much as previously, but enough to find out the source. Stuffing nuts on shaft logs had some leakage due to having stuffing changed over winter. Adjusted them to minimize leaks. Still getting water.
Fresh water system via potable water tank is pressurized and pump is not running.
I will monitor the water volume over the next couple days.

For Viper, techs layed hull on center supports during repairs.

dsolo wrote:Qr Bbpost.... For Viper, techs layed hull on center supports during repairs.

There's only so many places water can get get in short of a crack or hole in the hull.
- Check everything that goes through the hull including the bolts such as rudder tube and strut bolts.
- Check all hoses going to thru-hulls.
- Check the engines and generator to make sure no water is leaking both off and running.
- While running, check all engine hoses, raw water pumps, circ pumps, coolers, etc. There should be no water dripping under the engines while they are running.
- When drip-less shaft logs apply, check hoses for leaks with engines off and running.
- Check exhaust hoses and mufflers with engines running.
- Fresh water system including the tank and heater. Don't forget at the ice maker, washer/dryer if applicable, winsheild washer system, etc. The best way is to pressurize it, shut it off, then come back the next day or two and turn it on. The system should hold pressure over night. If the pump cycles as soon as you turn it on, you have a fresh water leak. Ensure the dockside water is not on.
- Don't forget the thrusters if applicable.
- Prop shaft and rudder shaft logs
- Check raw water washdown hardware from thru-hull to faucet.
- Check black water overboard discharge system
- If there are any thru-hull fittings out the side of the hull that are at the water line, sometimes you can't tell if they're leaking until you add weight to that side and get them under water to see if they leak. Just getting on and off the boat is enough to allow water in if they or the hoses leak.
- Another good one to check is the water fill hose to the tank. Couldn't find a leak in a boat once until I probed with a few questions that led me to the fill hose and sure enough, that was the culprit.
- Check all sink drain hoses and their thru-hull fittings. Don't forget the cockpit sink.
- Check for rain water intrusion possibilities if you're in an open slip.
- Check AC discharges and condensate drain lines.
- Check shower sumps.
- Check areas around the transom like where the trim tab actuators and hinges would be fastened, and if bolt-on swim platform applies, check the bolts for signs of leaks. If you see any stain tracks, they're either leaking or did at one time.
- If you have a hull drain plug, check for water coming in there.

That's a start!

Found the source of water leak. This is unbelievable! The port exhaust rubber boot connecting the exhaust thruhull and the fiberglass exhaust pipe has a leak. All indications points towards an animal intrusion. The exhaust port has bite marks along the inside of the flange. It finally found the soft boot and made a long slit.
Thank you London for posting your event. Your post connected the dots.
I have stopped the leak with a silicone tape. I was able to get inside the aft hull through the aft stateroom bed headboard. There was an access opening. I will order the boot Monday.

Thanks Viper for your listing of water intrusion points. I used it as a guide to find the water source. I am learning this vessel with the help of the technical knowledge here.

Received Carver new 45 degree elbow. Plan on repairing Tuesday while boat is in water. See the attached photo of the plug made from km1125's idea. Have had it inflated for a couple days. No leaks. Will have a backup of heavy plastic sheet in case.

Is this the best place or what! It's unfortunate that Lyndon went through this but his post was perfect timing

Amen!

Don't want to think this is after the fact, but need input for exhaust port guards. I found a SS 1/4" mesh sheet stock.The plan was to cut a pattern over size to the thruhull port and force the mesh into the opening. The wire stock is a 14 gauge wire. It is quite ridget. My question is, at cruising speed what is the volume of water running through the exhaust port? Am I better off attaching with fasteners at the flange of the thruhull elbow? It is a hard plastic material. I originally thought the mesh would stay in position based on the stiffness of the wire and the plastic material of the port. Lots of questions.

Here is a pic of mesh