Carver Owners Forum

The anti syphon valves have a small spring ball check, if they fail you would be able to draw though them with ease. If you get some fuel hose and run it from the pump outlet to a container and touch the start button the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds and you should get fuel into the container.
Without going back and reading through the complete thread, are sure the tanks are not currently empty?

Edit:deleted dup info

tomschauer wrote:Qr Bbpost....if they fail you would be able to draw though them with ease.....

I think what Tom meant to say was that if they fail in the open position, you can draw easily and be able to shiphon fuel through them. If they fail in the closed position due to the ball being stuck because of debris or old gummed up fuel residue, you won't be able to run any fuel through it.

BTW, the "check" in the closed position is not a perfect seal and you can blow by it unless there is residue on the ball or seat preventing air from getting through. For the most part it's a good enough seal to prevent siphoning fuel back to the tank. You may just need to be blowing into it with a shorter piece of hose to attain enough presure.

Viper wrote:Qr Bbpost

tomschauer wrote:Qr Bbpost....if they fail you would be able to draw though them with ease.....

I think what Tom meant to say was that if they fail in the open position, you can draw easily and be able to shiphon fuel through them. If they fail in the closed position due to the ball being stuck because of debris or old gummed up fuel residue, you won't be able to run any fuel through it.

BTW, the "check" in the closed position is not a perfect seal and you can blow by it unless there is residue on the ball or seat preventing air from getting through. For the most part it's a good enough seal to prevent siphoning fuel back to the tank. You may just need to be blowing into it with a shorter piece of hose to attain enough presure.

Thanks Viper. Still can’t get any gas out of the main feed line. Does anyone know what size it would be? It’s a lot larger than my other fittings, which remove with a 3/4 wrench, and are 1/2” MIP thread. I'm guessing these fittings remove with a 1" wrench, and are possible 3/4 MIP thread.

Mechanic suggested using an air compressor and giving it a quick shot from the feed toward the tank to see if it frees up. Good idea, bad idea? Best place to buy new or get a rebuild kit?

I think this is a pic of the antisiphon valve:

I pulled both starters off to have them rebuilt, but one needed a case and the auto elect place couldn’t locate a new one... so, after 2 weeks of listening to excuses from them, I ordered new from DB electric. Glad I did, new ones look great, and have a 1 year warranty. I had the alternators rebuilt as well. Replaced all plugs, wires, etc.

I’m ready to drain and fill fluids and potentially go boating at this point, I just have to finish getting the bad gas out of the tanks. I got about a 1/2 gallon of junky gas out of the pickup that feeds the generator (no anti-siphon valve there), and the rest has been good. I ran it through my lawn mower, then generator, and reluctantly through my 2012 F250 without issue. Truck had 1/4 tank, I ran 2-3 gallons through it without any problems, and several tanks of fresh gas since. Mechanic said that the generator pickup may not reach the bottom of the tank, and said that I should still try drawing gas from the main line, even though I'm getting good gas from the genny. Does anyone know if the feed line for the genny is higher in the tank than the pickup for the main line to the motor? regardless, I still want to clear the main line and feed tube for the motor, and I have to figure out that anti-siphon valve issue, but it'd be nice to know that the gas in the tank is at least somewhat good at this point. I will still drain what I can and re-fill with new gas.

Finally, the last info I have in my manual for my transmissions, BW recommends Dextron II trans fluid, but I can’t find simple Dex II, it’s all Dex IV now. Is that fine to run in the BW transmissions? Also, is Sierra Marine Oil, SAE 30, Full Synthetic, safe for the Walter V-drives? These are the fluids I’m considering:

Walter V Drive Fluid


ATF Choices

Well... I've had all sorts of fun, since my last couple posts...

The antisiphon valve wasn't stuck open, it was plugged with a jello like substance. Apparently the gas in the entire gas feed line had an adverse reaction with the rubber feed line, and all of the gas contained therein turned into gas jello, for lack of a better word... additionally the Oberg fuel filter is also full of gas jello. Thankfully, the rest of the system is plumbed with seamless stainless tube, and the gas in those tubes seems relatively stable.

I pulled the antisiphon valve, and drained approximately 30 + gallons from the tank. There's more to come. I just ran out of places to put it. I put 1/2 a tank in my taurus, 1/4 tank in the Expedition, 1/4 tank in my F250, and I have two 5 gallon gas cans, a 2.5 gallon gas can full, and 4-5 random gallon jugs full, that formerly had windshield washing solvent and whatnot in them. I never thought I'd have a problem getting rid of gas... I'm going to have "fire starting gas" for years to come. (Or more likely, it ends up at the City waste oil recycling center)

Given that the Oberg fuel filter is full of rubber gaskets (it essentially is a large O ring with a screen and smaller O ring in the middle), should I nix the Oberg fuel filter, and go with something else? I would really rather not re-plumb this damn thing, but if there's a chance this will happen again, it's gone.

Next step is apparently to soak the antisiphon valve in carb and choke cleaner, and I'm having a new gas line made. Should be done tomorrow.

Pics:

You can buy new elements for the Oberg. I don't think they're that expensive. Some guys carry a spare in case you need to change one on the fly, so it's good to have one handy. Then you can clean the old one out at your leisure and store it for next time.

Same thing with the anti-siphon valve. Not that expensive, so you could just replace it. Not sure if there's any rubber parts in there, but if they are they would now be more likely to tolerate Ethanol in the gas.

You said your genset feed did not have a anti-siphon valve?? I thought it was a requirement for any device that sat at or below the tank level, or any lines that sat at or below the tank level. They are there so your bilge doesn't fill with gas if the line or the device on the end become compromised in some way.

Don't ditch the Oberg, especially if you have more of that crud in the tank. It's either clean the Oberg or keep replacing secondary filters.

There should be an anti-siphon on the generator pickup.

The feed to the generator looks like a simple coupler. I'll take it apart and look at it. I've been over that side of the motors (between the motor and the gas tank) so much lately, I thought about leaving a pillow and blanket over there...

The tank is fairly clean. There was no rubber in the tank, so the fuel in the tank doesn't have the same reaction issues. The first 1/2 gallon was murky, but the rest has been clean, and usable. I haven't had any trouble running it in my truck 30/70 mix with new gas added to it (30% old boat gas). Truck is a 2012, and doesn't throw any codes or have any issues. I found a station on land that sells ethanol free marine fuel. I plan on adding 20-30 gallons per tank before I launch it. I have the impeller belt, and water pump belt off of it. I planned to start it and run it for 3-5 min. at a time, a couple times, before I launch.

I'll clean the Oberg filter, leave it installed, and buy two backup filters. Thanks gang.

Is my choice of fluids posted above for the Walter gearboxes and BW transmissions acceptable?

390Express wrote:Qr Bbpost ....I have the impeller belt, and water pump belt off of it. I planned to start it and run it for 3-5 min. at a time, a couple times, before I launch.....

Be careful here, it doesn't take long for the inside walls of your exhaust hoses to be destroyed when there's no water cooling them.