Bus bars
- feeez
- Commander

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Re: Bus bars
I have sketched what my wiring will look like after I introduce the buss bar for my negative battery cables. Please forgive my poor drafting skills. I am going to use a Blue Sea 600A bus bar.
Cheers
Fraser
Cheers
Fraser
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Former 2001 350 Mariner owner
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Viper
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Re: Bus bars
I don't see any red flags but you know how I feel about those battery switches
But that's another thread. The only other thing you may want to ensure is that you have a good connection of the bonding system wire to the engines. Since you are not hooking up the charger chassis ground directly to the bonding system, you should as a precaution ensure a good connection between the bonding system and DC ground. Too often, I find broken or disconnected bonding wires. Nothing wrong with the way you're hooking up the chassis ground, just double check the bonding system connections, those will be the green wires going to all your metal through hull hardware and engines, etc.
But that's another thread. The only other thing you may want to ensure is that you have a good connection of the bonding system wire to the engines. Since you are not hooking up the charger chassis ground directly to the bonding system, you should as a precaution ensure a good connection between the bonding system and DC ground. Too often, I find broken or disconnected bonding wires. Nothing wrong with the way you're hooking up the chassis ground, just double check the bonding system connections, those will be the green wires going to all your metal through hull hardware and engines, etc.- feeez
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Re: Bus bars
Thanks Viper..... will check the bonding connection as part of the job.
Cheers
Fraser
Cheers
Fraser
Former 2001 350 Mariner owner
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Viper
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Re: Bus bars
Depending on the distance of your #1 battery to the genny battery, there is nothing wrong with hooking up the negatives to each other if it means saving on wire rather than running both separately to the buss bar. As long as one of them runs to the bar as well, you're all good.
Make sure your shunt is properly rated. It must handle the maximum load that you'll ever put on that circuit. Over-sizing something like this is always best. If you plan on eventually installing an inverter, go with something like a 500 amp or larger now depending on inverter specs for maximum load on a typical unit you plan to install. A little research here ahead of time in anticipation of a future install can save you money. If you're installing new battery cable now for the house bank, the same applies; if you're planning on an inverter later, install the proper size wire now so you're not spending the money on wire twice as that can get very costly for large gauge wire.
I can't stress enough the need to use marine grade wire AND connectors. Don't skimp out here. I prefer using properly coloured wire for the application; black for negative, red for positive (though we've been seeing the standard change to yellow for negative for a number of years now). Don't solder the connections, and use a proper crimper. You can get hydraulic ones which are awesome to work with. They are on-line and reasonably priced. Use a good adhesive lined shrink tubing for the ends. Again, colour coded is best. Secure the cable runs at regular intervals, more is better, and keep the runs as far away from heat sources as reasonably possible.
Make sure your shunt is properly rated. It must handle the maximum load that you'll ever put on that circuit. Over-sizing something like this is always best. If you plan on eventually installing an inverter, go with something like a 500 amp or larger now depending on inverter specs for maximum load on a typical unit you plan to install. A little research here ahead of time in anticipation of a future install can save you money. If you're installing new battery cable now for the house bank, the same applies; if you're planning on an inverter later, install the proper size wire now so you're not spending the money on wire twice as that can get very costly for large gauge wire.
I can't stress enough the need to use marine grade wire AND connectors. Don't skimp out here. I prefer using properly coloured wire for the application; black for negative, red for positive (though we've been seeing the standard change to yellow for negative for a number of years now). Don't solder the connections, and use a proper crimper. You can get hydraulic ones which are awesome to work with. They are on-line and reasonably priced. Use a good adhesive lined shrink tubing for the ends. Again, colour coded is best. Secure the cable runs at regular intervals, more is better, and keep the runs as far away from heat sources as reasonably possible.
- dsolo
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Re: Bus bars
I would also add a volt/amp meter (digital) in parallel with your 600 amp rate stunt. Just make sure it's rating is equal with the stunt's rating. A 300v 500 amp (operates on 12vdc) is about $10-15 on eBay. Nothing better than seeing actual ampage.
Make sure the meter is calibrated with a good quality amp meter. You will find 2 potentiometers on the back of the meter. Adjust them so the digital meter reads the same voltage and amps as your quality hand held meter.
Mount meter where it is easily monitored.
Dan
Make sure the meter is calibrated with a good quality amp meter. You will find 2 potentiometers on the back of the meter. Adjust them so the digital meter reads the same voltage and amps as your quality hand held meter.
Mount meter where it is easily monitored.
Dan
dsolo
Vessel "LaBelle"
Portage Point Inn & Marina, Onekema, Mi
1997 Carver 405 MY
454 EFI Crusaders
Vessel "LaBelle"
Portage Point Inn & Marina, Onekema, Mi
1997 Carver 405 MY
454 EFI Crusaders
- km1125
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Re: Bus bars
Probably want to add a connection from the buss bar to the generator, or your generator won't start.
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Viper
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- feeez
- Commander

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Re: Bus bars
dsolo wrote:Qr Bbpost I would also add a volt/amp meter (digital) in parallel with your 600 amp rate stunt. Just make sure it's rating is equal with the stunt's rating. A 300v 500 amp (operates on 12vdc) is about $10-15 on eBay. Nothing better than seeing actual ampage.
Make sure the meter is calibrated with a good quality amp meter. You will find 2 potentiometers on the back of the meter. Adjust them so the digital meter reads the same voltage and amps as your quality hand held meter.
Mount meter where it is easily monitored.
Dan
The shunt is connected to a Victron energy monitor in the salon.
Fraser
Former 2001 350 Mariner owner
- feeez
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Re: Bus bars
I was thinking that myself when I was doing the diagram. I was not 100% sure of how that was wired..... Haven't seen the inside of my boat since last October.
Thanks
Fraser
Former 2001 350 Mariner owner
- bud37
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Re: Bus bars
I think if I remember right there are two grounds from the gen.....one to the battery from start circuit etc...and one from block and case that goes to the port engine block post.....its been a while, won't be long now just another couple months 

FWIW.....The above is just my opinion.