Window leaks

[sonnyb]

i have had this boat for several years and it is still a thorn in my side. the teak window frames are really a pain. i have come to the conclusion that this is the worst boat i have ever owned. i just got through sealing the windows again and it still leaks , no pours in, inside. i will make someone a good deal on this boat. includes a brand new [rebuild] 351].

[Seif911]

Awe, don't do that. I am sure I will figure out what to do once I pull the inside teak board off. Then I can pull the windows and track. When I put it back together I will fill it up with silicon or maybe some butyl tape. I guarantee there is a way!

For me I need to fix my fuel problem 1st so I can do some fishing...the leak is low priority...I may not even try to fix it until winter but who knows.

[CYO Admin]

i have had this boat for several years and it is still a thorn in my side. the teak window frames are really a pain. i have come to the conclusion that this is the worst boat i have ever owned. i just got through sealing the windows again and it still leaks , no pours in, inside. i will make someone a good deal on this boat. includes a brand new [rebuild] 351].

I feel your pain but any 35 year old boat that has not been maintained over the years is going to need lots of TLC. Good luck!

[AaHubb]

What might be causing you grief are the resins in the teak. That's what makes it last in the marine environment however as you have found they can make caulking not stick. Try wiping down the teak with acetone or paint thinner before applying caulk.

[Jab]

Steve-
Did you ever get back to tackling your window leak?
I just bought a '78 Santa Cruz 2866. Sounds like the sliders are similar. There has not been any major leaking, but the teak around the sliders and windshield has been inconsistently cared for. There is an odd assortment of caulking and sealants in different spots from spot repairs over the years. Since I will have the boat indoors for the next 6 months, I'm considering cleaning/repairing all of the transom sliders and windshield.
If you have any words of wisdom I'm all ears!
Joe

[Seif911]

I have not jumped into that project quite yet. I am anxious to do it but I just spent the last month or two getting ready for sturgeon fishing and now we may buy another house. I caught a 59.75" sturgeon, so it was all worth it. My Carver is now covered up for a while. Let me know if you pull your apart 1st

[Jab]

REMOVING THE BOARD

Step 1: removing plugs and screws

I read many posts with tips for removing plugs with as little effort and damage as possible. I hope to re-use the board (I will replace it forward of the lower station, where it has some rot). I hope to replug the previously plugged holes, and counter-sink/plug the previously exposed heads.

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I combined the approach of several posters.

1. I used a drill bit with the plug diameter (1/4"). I drilled away as little plug as possible, no more than 1/8", just to remove the varnish and top layer of wood in hopes of preventing damage to the surrounding wood when pulling the plug.

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2. At a slow drill speed I put a screw through the middle of the plug. I don't believe they were glued in place. Many posters indicated that plugs are usually held in by a combination of snug fit and varnish, to allow clean removal.

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3. I scraped the hole clean with a small screw driver tip.

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With this technique I removed about 12 plugs with no wood damage. After that, about 3/4 of the screws came out easily. The other 1/4 either stripped the head, or broke the screw. I need to return with a drill and bit for removing these.

Next up… Removing the board. I expect this will be adhered to the hull/track/backing… probably originally with caulk, and maybe with stuff added by PO's to address leaks. I hope I can remove it without trashing the wood. Any suggestions?

[Jab]

I started on my Window Leak project today. I am no expert by any stretch! I will try to post updates as I proceed (which will be slowly, as time allows). Any and all suggestions appreciated!

BEFORE

1978 Santa Cruz 2866
My first step is removing the interior wood board- a single piece that runs the length of the starboard interior, covering the lower slider track.
On my boat there are 2 rows of screws. The top row are recessed and plugged. The bottom tow have beveled heads and are screwed-in flush. I'm assuming these were added by a previous owner? I'm not sure why Carver would go to the trouble to hide one set of screw heads, and leave the other exposed!

Photos attached. The only real wood damage is at each end (more fore than aft) where the track/windows meet the windshield and cockpit wall, respectively. At the aft juncture there were 4 screws hidden in the locker. These were easily accessed by removing the top of the locker as shown.

Next up… removing the board.

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[jwaggoner]

I recently hired a boat repair company (reputable in this area) to reseal the starboard salon windshield. It broke and now I am having trouble finding a window. Any ideas?

[waybomb]

Are speaking of the glass itself breaking? I believe it's a flat piece, so just about any glass outfit could cut one out for you.