Maxwell RC windlass problem

[Midnightsun]

Glad to see you got her figured out. Really a simple job once you have the experience of the first time. While you are there you want to look at or better yet change the stripper arm

and the pressure arm.

You will be good for at least another decade.

[Low Flyer]

Thanks Midnightsun...
After I replaced the gypsy last year (all chewed up from previous owner) I also replaced the stripper and pressure arm. I actually keep a spare pressure arm on hand due to the fact that they break at least once a year. You don't happen to know why they break so often do you?

I always grease the gypsy clutch area while I am in there but I don't think anything could have prevented the worm screw drive from breaking. That one is on me due to the force I exerted on the winch while the anchor was stuck. Hopefully, lesson learned.

With this gearbox replacement I have almost replaced the entire windlass piece by piece. Now, or at least soon, on to the next project.

Anyone know about front main bearing seals? While replacing the batteries and charger I was looking around the engine room for anything out of the normal and exercising the sea cocks. Starboard front main seal must be leaking (always had just a little drip) more than before. I'll post in another section after research.

Cheers

[Midnightsun]

Something is amiss! I purchased my boat last year and the all chain Freedom 800 was never serviced. That being said it was in perfect condition with original stripper and pressure arm even though the previous owner was a anchoring out addict. I did replace both just to be safe though. Same deal on my previous boat although it only had 35' of chain and then a transition to rope on a Freedom 500. My assumption is your chain is not the correct one for the windlass as I have never had issues with the stripper or pressure arm on either setup in 10+ years of use.

Are you tying off your chain/rope or using a bridle to remove the strain off of the windlass when at anchor?

As for your oil leak, it may be as simple as a slight overfill. Had this happen to me on 2 brand new Mercruiser 383 Magnums where I filled the oil just a hair over the full mark. Found out they do not like to be overfilled the least bit. This leak was on the rear main seal FYI. Keep in mind the dipstick marks are an indicator of an acceptable level and not empty/full. Started filling all my engines to about 1/8" below the full mark and never had another oil leak in over 8 years of use.

[Low Flyer]

Okay guys, update on my Maxwell Windlass.

I finally received and finally had the time to install the new gearbox for my windlass. While it was out I opened the cover on the "reversing solenoid pack" and everything was clean and brand new looking. Backed off the nuts on all the 12V terminals on the outside of the box and they too were clean and brand new looking. Also, the bottom of the foot switches were visible and clean. Unscrewed the panel behind the DC electric box under and inside the entry step (much easier from the Master BD) and every connection was clean. The helm remote switch connections were also clean. The only connection I cannot find is the GRD wire that runs from engine room forward to anchor locker.

Put it all back together and anxiously went topside to the foot switches and step on the down switch..... "click" nothing else. Click, click, click.. Up switch. Click, click, click... Made my way to the helm... Could not hear the switch but had green power light but no windlass movement.

Returned to anchor locker in forward berth and checked all connections. Shorted foot switches from inside locker and received the same click. Loosened clutch and moved gypsy back and forth again tried foot switch. Click. Removed windlass motor and used 12V power pack at terminal ends. Started both directions. Reinstalled motor and shorted foot switch, motor started running down. Great! Wrong! Topside again to foot switches. Down switch and motor lowered anchor, up switch nothing. Used windlass wrench to turn gypsy back and forth like I used to have to do... down switch, anchor goes down. Up switch, anchor comes up. Down switch again... click, nothing. Up switch again... click, nothing.

Anybody have any ideas? Remember, I've checked all but one GRD connection, verified solenoid connections, switch connections, circuit breaker connections, brand new gearbox, total windlass lubrication, took the motor to rebuild shop for Alt, Gen, Starter (Marine also) and was told motor was strong both directions.

I really hate to start throwing money at the last two big items... solenoid pack $200 +, motor $400 +.

I've been down the troubleshooting checklist and there is nothing left except to try and contact Maxwell.

Any ideas from the Carver Forum Braintrust? Anyone seen this before on any boat? I believe I've done everything that everyone has suggested so far.

[Viper]

Sounds like you have an intermittent problem. You need to go through the process I described in an earlier post. Clean contacts doesn't guarantee the parts will work right. There is a large black/ground cable at the solenoid box (side terminal) correct? If there is, along with a main positive load wire (middle terminal), then you have everything you need to test.

[Low Flyer]

I wanted to close out this post with the final result that fixed my intermittent windlass problem.

Instead of throwing money at the problem/solution, I decided to call Maxwell to see if they had seen this problem before.
Sure enough they had.... While their troubleshooting steps were simple and to the point, I do not think it would have entirely solved the problem but it lead me to figure out a solution.
Maxwell told me to simply take the three (3) screws off the motor end cap, use compressed air to blow off the motor brushes to remove any dust, dirt or debris and then reinstall the end cap and activate the switches. Maxwell said that over time the motor can build up dust from grinding down the motor brushes when operating the windlass and my symptoms were indicative of this problem.
I did as told and went one step further.... the three (3) motor brushes are held in their sleeve by a metal spring clip. You can slide the spring clip to one side to remove/replace the brushes so I decided to see how much of the brush was left before they needed replacement.
The first two (2) brushes pulled easily out of the channel for inspection but the third one had to be helped with pliers. After filing down the edge metal on all of them (as the brushes wear down there is a little bur edge of excess metal that develops) I also filed down the four sides of the brush that was so tight that it was not easily removed from the sleeve. That brush was also slightly longer than the other brushes.
I put everything back together, reinstalled the motor and connected the wires and then scrambled topside to test the windlass. I first tried the remote switches at the windlass and the gypsy spun the chain out of the locker with ease. I reversed and it pulled the chain back inside. I then went to the helm and again tested both directions as the windlass quickly pulled the chain up and down with no hesitation or stopping when reversed as it did before.
Not only is the windlass working as advertised now but also seems to be quieter when activated.
Problem finally solved without having to replace any parts for a change.

Sorry for no pictures or illustrations but the end result was a surprise and so simple but I wish I had a snap shot of how easy this was to accomplish. I hope this will help someone now or in the future if they come across the same or similar problem.

[Viper]

[bud37]

Good stuff......nice to see a repair instead of replace.......thanks for posting the resolution....