New Owner!

[dalton62]

Hey everyone, I am now the new proud owner of a 1988 Santego 2767. It's an awesome boat and I'm super excited. Having said that I have a couple questions if ya'll don't mind pointing me in the right direction (I'm about to search the forum as well but with any new site I always try to post a intro post before anything else).

My engine trim isn't working at all. Tomorrow I'm going to be doing the usual running around with a multimeter to figure out where there's power and whatnot, but I was wondering if there are any known problem places I should start looking first (like hidden fuses and such). The previous owner just had one of the engines completely pulled and redone and completely went through the other, so I'm thinking it may be as simple as they forgot to hook a power wire back up (at least I'm hoping it's that simple), or just a bad switch. It DID work before hand apparently. Any tips?

Also, I'm really not digging the fact that the two fuel tanks are completely separate for each engine. Has anyone made a crossover or have any reason why that'd be a bad idea?

I'm also needing to replace the trim tabs and I was wondering if there was a way I could go wider than the 8x12's that are currently on it. The shape of the hull has me thinking I won't but if anyone has done it I'd love to hear how you positioned them.

Finally, the boat is equipped with the dual 3.7L Mercruisers so what can I expect to get for fuel economy, top speed, and cruising speed? I know each boat is a little different and I'll have to investigate it on my own but as a rough estimate?

Thanks!

[Ramsport47]

Hello and welcome.

The trim pumps have a biggish square fuse on the solenoid pack that manages the power...check that first.

Other than more hoses, no reason to not put crossover valves on

Is your hull the early flatter bottom or the deeper Vee? Regardless, Carver always does a pretty good job of properly tabbing their boats.

Lastly, <y old 2757 Montego had those engines...topped out at about 38 and did roughly 10 GPH at cruise of 24 MPH. They're great engine, but do require maintenance...tune-ups, oil changes, etc.

[waybomb]

Welcome aboard!

[mjk1040]

Ahoy and Welcome! You've come to the right place. Tracing the electrical is the right approach to your OD trim issue. Fuel tanks are separate. Never crossed them for the simple fact why would you want all that extra plumbing? And would teeing the supply lines rob one engine of fuel? Don't think trim tabs bigger than the haul design is made for is a waste. Good luck with your issues!

[Viper]

Welcome aboard.

There are two black cables that look like speaker wire pairs that go through each transom assembly. They have bullet connectors on them that would have to be disconnected when the engine was removed. Follow the cables from the transom assembly until you find the connectors. They'll either be fastened to the transom or the engine and hookup may have been forgotten after engine install. One of the cables is for the trim sender on the strb side of the drive and the other is for the trim limit switch on the port side of the drive. If the limit switch has failed in the open position, it will not allow the drive to trim up. By-passing the switch by hot wiring the bullet connectors and trying the trim will tell you if the problem is with the limit switch or not. A meter will also tell you if the switch is in the open position. Certainly do your electrical checks but don't discount the possibility of coincidental component failure at the same time the engine was pulled, such as limit switches, the trim switches at the helm controls, pumps, fuses, etc.

Does the trailer trim function work?

Nothing wrong with incorporating a fuel source selection circuit as long as the engines are still drawing through their own separate lines otherwise they may starve of fuel if the lines are big enough. Tanks are typically equipped with more than one fuel port to draw from, some have three for engine, crossover and generator. You'd be looking for a three-way valve for each engine like the one in the link. It'll allow the engine to draw from one tank or the other:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=56223

[dalton62]

Thanks everyone for the replies, I'm sitting in the salon right now getting ready to go out into the heat and figure this trim issue out

[dalton62]

UPDATE! The rain came in before I could get too much accomplished, however, I was able to get the down switch for the starboard engine to respond but the other two buttons I had no luck with and nothing for the port switches. I'm thinking the switches are the issue but I cant find a part number or anything to purchase a replacement. Even the guy at West Marine was stumped. Hopefully I'll have better luck tomorrow.

[Viper]

Show us a picture of the switches. I assume they are part of the remote control so show us a picture of that too and someone may be able to help.

[Golfgippsland]

Hi I have the same boat and engines as you. This is a great site for all carver information. It's great to have another santego owner to refer too. All the best and cheers from oz.

[Phono]

Hi and welcome; I just join the forum after reading your post as I also have an 1988 Santego with same exact problem and believe it could be just a matter of removing control buttons (both of them) to make sure voltage is getting there and proceed to clean any oxidation with CRC electronic spray.. Problem for me is - probably same for you - will be how to remove them??? i don't see any screw around. I've removed even the UP/DOWN label but couldn't find any screw as well. Hoping anyone could help. I'll post a closer pic sometime tonight as it will help to make sense of the prob..