Sliding Door issues on Carver Mariner 350

[amanphoto]

I have some questions regarding the performance of my sliding door on my Carver Mariner 350. First the door is grinding when I open and close it. There is a similar post to this, but I think my issue is more involved then that post.

Issue 1) My sliding door is grinding metal on metal on the top right corner of the door. If I look closely at the track on the top of the door, there us a plastic bump that sticks out on the outside of the door. This ball helps the door glide against the track on the outside. There doesn't seam to be anything that helps the door glide other then the felt on the inside of the door. The felt / fur stuff is meant as a weather barrier and to to assist with the gliding. Is there something missing that would help it glide?

Door top.jpg

door slide ball.jpg

Issue 2) The door is a touch out of allurement in it's tack. The bottom of the door is slightly closer then the top. Usually with patio doors like these, there is an adjustment screw on the bottom of the door to square it up. The door on the Carver Mariner doesn't seam to have any adjustment built into it. The wheels on the bottom of the door have bolts that hold them to the door, but you can not reach them with a wrench. How do I adjust this door?

ps. I tried to lift the door and pull it out and it did not move at all.

Issue 3) The latch in the door is failing. The wood type screws that hold the door latch together in a sandwich position have stripped out. If the two plates are not held together, the jaws that grab the latch move out of alignment and you can't open the door. Is there a better catch for this door, or where do I find a new latch?

door catch 1.jpg

door catch 2.jpg

[amanphoto]

Update. I replaced the top fur with some slide tape I bought from my local Wood Craft store. It's 3/4" wide and 10' long. I cut it to length and I works great. The only problem is that everyone now slams the door when they close it.

[bud37]

I am looking at the same thing,lithium grease for now......that fur stuff appears to be two sided and seems to slide in from the ends of the channel, but to remove the channel, it seems to me you have to remove the entire top of the door frame to access the ends, I think.....did you get that stuff out and if so how?, I was thinking along the same lines as you with a teflon strip.

Do you have a pic of this?

At the bottom of the door above where the wheel attachment screw is, there is a rubber plug....I am wondering if there might be an adjustment in there but can't see inside, maybe small allen key, going to try to check but need a very bright lite......but the way the wheel track is designed I think you may be right about no adjustment possible.

[amanphoto]

This is the glide tape. It's 3/4 wide and slightly opaque. Works great.

[denpooch]

Hi There,

I just changed the entry latch on my 2005 Mariner. Fortunately the previous owner had a spare!
The manufacturer of the latch is Southco: https://www.southco.com/en-us/

Good luck

[Softball44]

Do you know the product# of the latch that works for the slider?

[SanJuanDreamer]

Did you get the PN for that door latch?
If not, I can get it.

[ColinC]

I was getting a scraping on the bottom of the sliding door on my 2000 350 Mariner. I unscrewed the bottom rail, lifted the door out with the bottom rail attached, removed the bottom rail from the door, and located the black friction pads or sliders or whatever they are called. These are (?polypropylene?) plastic blocks that should slide the weight of the tilted door on the bottom rail. One was worn. I re-drilled the hole of the worn slider a bit off centre on the opposite side and screwed it back into the door and the door no longer grinds metal on metal. Door closes silently. Does anyone know where to get the black plastic friction blocks? If not I'll just cut up some plastic door sliders.