Calling all Winterizing DIYers

[tomschauer]

Ok, the raw water side of the cooling systems have zero corrosion inhibitors and actually may have corrosion catalyst when in normal operation (boat in the water) especially if you are in slat or brackish water. Unless the RV antifreeze cheap or expensive is a very high or very low PH, I see no reason to worry about corrosion. I would think it would be better than most any raw water sitting in the system?

[Viper]

It's not just about corrosion but how chemical reactions can affect different metals. Raw water, fresh or salt, isn't necessarily the worst thing that can react with metal. Consider that a well labeled plumbing only antifreeze will state that it is recommended for plastic lines only and NOT recommended for certain metals or winterizing engines. Now why would they state that and eliminate a large part of their market share unless there were adverse effects? What would be the benefit to them to make such a recommendation if there were no ill effects from using the product that way?

Once again it comes down to one's comfort level. Not trying to sway one way or the other, just saying that there IS a difference and reasons why one is more expensive than the other.

[tomschauer]

For my a/c I always blow out the water with compressed air then run the pink stuff through. I pinch off the lines and do one unit at a time for both the air then the pink.