Carver 356 RPM issues

[cpoint]

390Express, thanks for the response. You could be right, last time (last year) when I had the fuel filtered (initially emptied twice due to fuel separation), later had it filtered to get remaining stuff out (which I had posted pictures of) the guys did tell me similar stories about their other customers had fuel line problems, once cleared they got their power back. Sounds like same as what you are saying. I will ask the mechanic to look into that next time he is back on the boat. Thanks

[km1125]

Qr Bbpost
I paid $60 for a new fuel line with new crimped factory style ends on it. It was worth every penny.

Curious where you got the crimped lines from. I want to replace mine and would rather do pro crimps like the stock ones than put hose barbs and double clamps on everywhere.

[390Express]

Qr Bbpost

Qr Bbpost
I paid $60 for a new fuel line with new crimped factory style ends on it. It was worth every penny.

Curious where you got the crimped lines from. I want to replace mine and would rather do pro crimps like the stock ones than put hose barbs and double clamps on everywhere.

Parker (Fluid Power Systems) on 14 Mile, just west of Gratiot can make a factory style line, with pro crimps. Their gas line is stamped USCG Approved right on it, and the new lines are compatible with E10.

My longest and thickest gas line was 1/2" I.D. and 8' long. That line was $60, crimped with new brass fittings on both ends. The shorter supply line was just under 5' and was $40. The return lines on my boat are 3/8"... Looks like I'll be replacing those this week... yippie...

[cpoint]

Thanks for the idea about the fuel line. Looks like an easy change that I should be able to do. Is there a trick to swapping out old fuel line with new? I assume fuel will empty from line when removing. Once I put the new line back in, How would I prime? do I need to prime the line?

[g36]

in the past i had also replaced all my fuel lines too except the fill hoses. yes you will have some fuel to catch when changing lines also i would suggest priming as much as you can .i used a small electric 12v fuel pump i had which worked fine.something like this .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Universal- ... 1922318212

[390Express]

I'm pretty confident that I was right that the return fuel line had in fact failed and was introducing new sediment back into the tank. There is a fuel filter before the pump, so there should be no sediment in the "system." The TBI injectors are not clogged, so no sediment should be getting to the injectors themselves. (they have little screen filters on them, and those filters are not clogged) However, when I disconnected the fuel return line, and emptied the small amount of gas that was in the fuel return lines, there was all sorts of sediment in them. There really isn't any other place, other than the lines themselves, for the sediment to come from - ergo, it's likely or proven that the fuel return lines were bad.

I replaced the fuel return line on the starboard motor, hooked up a pretty large 12v, 10gph pump, hooked a can style fuel filter/ water separator to the pump, and connected the pump and filter to the system in the same manner as the factory pump and filter. I ran the system for 30 min like that, just cycling the gas that was in the tank. I went to the gas station, picked up another 10 gals of fuel, and ran the pump again for 30 min, while I was adding the new 10 gals to further agitate and stir up the gas in the tank... knock on wood, seems like I'm good to go.

Boat ran for an hour on the main tank. It's the longest its ever ran on the main tank, and has restarted twice since running for an hour, with no issues. I plan on taking it out this weekend. We'll see... I'll keep you updated.

(Posted in duplicate to help the O.P., and for future reference.)

[390Express]

Qr Bbpost Thanks for the idea about the fuel line. Looks like an easy change that I should be able to do. Is there a trick to swapping out old fuel line with new? I assume fuel will empty from line when removing. Once I put the new line back in, How would I prime? do I need to prime the line?

If you haven't replaced your supply lines, you may need to prime the system after replacing them. (I didn't need to) You could likely use a siphon ball or a small pump to prime. You may be able to get away with taking a few pulls manually with your mouth, if you're inclined. If you do, puff it like a cigar 3-4 times. You won't hurt yourself. I've seen people get a mouth full of gas siphoning gas this way, and they were fine after spitting it out and rinsing their mouth. You'd never come close to that. As soon as you get past the initial 90 at the top of the tank, it's all down hill from there, and should create it's own siphon. I didn't need to prime my system at all, and I have an 8' gas line. You could also take a small funnel and pour about 1/2 pint back into the gas line. Keep the connector in or about the same level that you're going to hook it up at. If you stand up and pour in gas, when you drop the line down it'll all leak out.

There's no trick to the return line, and you can run those and connect them completely dry. Replacing both the supply and the return line, coupled with cycling the sediment gas inside the tank through a filter fixed my issue, I believe. It's been running great since.

Good luck!

[cpoint]

Qr Bbpost

Qr Bbpost Thanks for the idea about the fuel line. Looks like an easy change that I should be able to do. Is there a trick to swapping out old fuel line with new? I assume fuel will empty from line when removing. Once I put the new line back in, How would I prime? do I need to prime the line?

If you haven't replaced your supply lines, you may need to prime the system after replacing them. (I didn't need to) You could likely use a siphon ball or a small pump to prime. You may be able to get away with taking a few pulls manually with your mouth, if you're inclined. If you do, puff it like a cigar 3-4 times. You won't hurt yourself. I've seen people get a mouth full of gas siphoning gas this way, and they were fine after spitting it out and rinsing their mouth. You'd never come close to that. As soon as you get past the initial 90 at the top of the tank, it's all down hill from there, and should create it's own siphon. I didn't need to prime my system at all, and I have an 8' gas line. You could also take a small funnel and pour about 1/2 pint back into the gas line. Keep the connector in or about the same level that you're going to hook it up at. If you stand up and pour in gas, when you drop the line down it'll all leak out.

There's no trick to the return line, and you can run those and connect them completely dry. Replacing both the supply and the return line, coupled with cycling the sediment gas inside the tank through a filter fixed my issue, I believe. It's been running great since.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the helpful info. I am not a smoker so don't know how to puff it like cigar but I was thinking using a funnel to put some in as you mention, keeping it close to high end, ready to plug it right back in. I assume little bit air should be OK? This all sounds logical solution to my 3 year old problem. If this solves my problem I will send you a box of cigars

[g36]

Keep in mind there's a antisiphon valve on the supply side of the fuel line at the tank . Which is a check valve I don't know if you would be able to pour much gas in opposite the flow or suck it up with your mouth but maybe your a big sucker

[cpoint]

Qr Bbpost Keep in mind there's a antisiphon valve on the supply side of the fuel line at the tank . Which is a check valve I don't know if you would be able to pour much gas in opposite the flow or suck it up with your mouth but maybe your a big sucker

I was a big sucker for getting into this problem 3 years ago Anyway, I replaced the fuel line from switch to engine. Did not help, same problem. I did not see any blockage in the old line there was some ethanol residue where the fuel sat for awhile, when dried the hose, it was like a powder, but not blocking. Anyway now I have new hose there. So the tank to switch is next on my list. Its easy access, but I do not expect problems in that either, because when I switch from port to aux, the problem was there, starboard did not have any issues from aux, so it would be odd that input to switch would be bad both on aux and port tank. Because if aux is also bad, it should cause problem on starboard engine, and it does not. Could the switch have some issue? I have no idea, I guess I will check that when I replace tank yo switch on port side next.