Walter Gear Dive Fluid Change

[390Express]

Any tips or tricks to changing the gear drive fluid? I have a Jabsco hand pump and some clear 3/16 I.D. tube, but I can’t seem to get the tube in far enough to draw fluid. I got about 12” fed in there, but it’s just drawing air. I’m going to try the harder whiteish plastic tube next. Maybe hit it with a heat gun to get some of the curl out of it.

[Viper]

I assume you're talking about a Walter V Drive. There are large plugs on the unit for draining. It'll either be on the front or back of the housing.

[390Express]

Qr Bbpost I assume you're talking about a Walter V Drive. There are large plugs on the unit for draining. It'll either be on the front or back of the housing.

Any tips or tricks to getting the plug out? It's in a tight spot to get to, square plug, I'm guessing brass, in the cast iron. Doesn't seem like it's ever been out, or has any intention of coming out without some hefty persuasion. Thinking it may be easier to use an oil extraction pump, but I need to get an electric pump, this hand pump works for beans.

[Viper]

If it's that tight, you may want to just leave it so you don't open up a can of worms. If you can get through the dipstick hole, that's probably the easiest. Don't forget you can also remove the oil cooling lines and service the filter behind one of them at the same time. Probably never done before either.

[390Express]

Qr Bbpost If it's that tight, you may want to just leave it so you don't open up a can of worms. If you can get through the dipstick hole, that's probably the easiest. Don't forget you can also remove the oil cooling lines and service the filter behind one of them at the same time. Probably never done before either.

Thanks Viper. I removed one of the oil cooler lines to have better access to the plug. I'm going to try again this weekend. I got the starboard plug out, and the oil drained. There was nothing concerning on the magnetic plug, and the gearboxes have been fine. There was some water in the oil, but I'm going to fill it with clean oil and run it, before I concern myself with weather or not the oil coolers are cracked.

Where is the filter for the oil cooler? I have the exit line off of the Port side now. I didn't see any filter in there. There is a sea strainer before the oil cooler, but I haven't noticed anything else. Can the filter be cleaned (is it a screen type) or should it be replaced?

Quick tip, if anyone is doing this, I found that the best "catch can" is a 2 liter pop bottle, with a around a 2" hole cut near the top. I was able to lay the pop bottle sideways in the stringer, with the opening near the drain plug, and got virtually every drip in the catch can. I did have to replug it as there was slightly more than 2Q in there, but it was already slow flow when I had to swap the bottle, it was pretty easy.

[Viper]

No filter for the oil cooler. I'm reffering to the filter inside the Walter. It is behind one of the oil lines when you remove them off the back of the Walter. I just can't remember which line. I believe I posted a diagram or link in one of your threads before that shows the filter location. Let me know if you can't find that link.

[390Express]

Qr Bbpost No filter for the oil cooler. I'm reffering to the filter inside the Walter. It is behind one of the oil lines when you remove them off the back of the Walter. I just can't remember which line. I believe I posted a diagram or link in one of your threads before that shows the filter location. Let me know if you can't find that link.

I haven't been able to locate the link that shows the filter/screen location for the Walter gear box, please repost it here if you come across it. I have the return coolant line off the gearbox, but don't see anything there. I can try pulling the supply line, but it would be easier if I had a diagram or idea where it might be.

I did notice something troubling, the port motor has a perko style strainer, but there's no damn straining basket in the strainer. The pickup for the gearbox and motor is one in the same. The flow diagram would start with the hull pickup, go to the strainer, then directly to the gearbox, then out of the gearbox to the fresh water pump on the motor. That is the motor that overheated, and now that it's near the end of the season, there is a bunch of seaweed growing under the boat. I'm guessing that either the filter on the Walter gearbox, or the freshwater pump, or both are clogged with seaweed. I'm going to take the freshwater pump apart to check for a seaweed clog and to check the impeller, back flow the whole system and pick up a new basket for the strainer.

Pro tip for getting those plugs out of the gearbox. 12 point socket, 11/16th is too big, 17 mm fits the best that I have found in a standard size. I bought an attachment to put a 3/8 drive socket on my 1/4 Dewalt impact, and it came right out, no hassle. Came out nice and slow, allowed me time to get it to a point where I could turn it with my hand, worked great!

[H2oaddict5435]

I have a dipstick that has broken off the handle.
I tried blaster penetration oil and then tried working it loose no deal. Then used a shop vac and thin drill bits to drill through corrosion No deal still won’t budge.
I’m thinking that I may have to remove the top cover with the 6 bolts to get a good visegrip on it.
Possibly had water get into the dipstick hole maybe by a leak in the covers gasket?

[390Express]

Qr Bbpost I have a dipstick that has broken off the handle.
I tried blaster penetration oil and then tried working it loose no deal. Then used a shop vac and thin drill bits to drill through corrosion No deal still won’t budge.
I’m thinking that I may have to remove the top cover with the 6 bolts to get a good visegrip on it.
Possibly had water get into the dipstick hole maybe by a leak in the covers gasket?

I think you're on the right track with the top plate removal. Post a pic of what you have exposed re: dipstick, so we can see what you're working with. I haven't had to take my top covers off yet, but it seems pretty easy.