Was: Deck Core Thickness? NOW: Deck Replacement

[BenTen]

Source of the post Besides ease of application, any particular reason why you're going with KiwiGrip instead of gelcoat?

Simple- I don't think I can match the molded in non skid with gelcoat. I made up a test panel with different levels of KiwiGrip and we think a lighter application will not only cover any remaining imperfections in my repairs, but also give a very nice, uniform, surface that will look very similar to the original. Since I'm redoing all nonskid- upper deck, helm, cockpit and swim deck, we think it will look original to most people.

I've read a few negative reviews and most are concerns about cleaning after a few years but the good news is it's easy to recoat if needed.

[Viper]

It's actually pretty easy to duplicate the pattern you have. There's a technique but it's just rolled on with a roller and since you're coating all surfaces, you'll never know it's not a perfect match to what was underneath before. Then you won't have to worry about it again or what it'll look like in just a few years.

Hope the KiwiGrip works out for you. Keep the pics coming

[BenTen]

Viper, do you happen to have a link to information on the technique that you mention?

[Viper]

Not really. There may be something on line but I've never looked. It just comes with experience. In short; you roll on the gelcoat, wait for it to kick off/cure a bit, then roll over it with a fresh roller (nothing on it). You do just one pass per section, and manageable section sizes at a time so it doesn't cure past the point of no return. Get most of the gel off the roller before the next section by rolling it on cardboard. When it starts too stiffen up too much, change rollers. When you roll it initially, it will eventually flatten out. Going over it again after a short cure time will lift/create peaks and valleys. The exaggeration of those will depend on the roller's pile, the duration of the cure before re-rolling, and your technique. It's all about the timing. This method is used all the time in a lot of shops. It takes practice but a few test pieces and you'll get the hang of it. Of course you'll need to know what and how to mix for the proper finish as this will be a finished gel coating but I'm sure that info is on-line.

The other option which is easier and faster is to simply add a non-skid additive to a gelcoat mix, then just roll it on. I prefer the look that you get from the process noted above though.

[bud37]

Source of the post

Source of the post Besides ease of application, any particular reason why you're going with KiwiGrip instead of gelcoat?

Simple- I don't think I can match the molded in non skid with gelcoat. I made up a test panel with different levels of KiwiGrip and we think a lighter application will not only cover any remaining imperfections in my repairs, but also give a very nice, uniform, surface that will look very similar to the original. Since I'm redoing all nonskid- upper deck, helm, cockpit and swim deck, we think it will look original to most people.

I've read a few negative reviews and most are concerns about cleaning after a few years but the good news is it's easy to recoat if needed.

Have you considered using a slightly darker contrasting color....now the reason being, I had the decks done on one boat and the color match was good in a certain light and off in others, it just looked odd. It was the roll on anti skid, not the gel....cant remember the name now, but like you said after the second year it showed thru in spots and was a bit rough under foot.

Just some observations, perhaps now the product is improved and if contrasting color it may just look like it was done on purpose. White is murder to match.

Good luck man looks like you have done a nice job.

[km1125]

Source of the post Not really. There may be something on line but I've never looked. It just comes with experience. In short; you roll on the gelcoat, wait for it to kick off/cure a bit, then roll over it with a fresh roller (nothing on it). You do just one pass per section, and manageable section sizes at a time so it doesn't cure past the point of no return. Get most of the gel off the roller before the next section by rolling it on cardboard. When it starts too stiffen up too much, change rollers. When you roll it initially, it will eventually flatten out. Going over it again after a short cure time will lift/create peaks and valleys. The exaggeration of those will depend on the roller's pile, the duration of the cure before re-rolling, and your technique. It's all about the timing. This method is used all the time in a lot of shops. It takes practice but a few test pieces and you'll get the hang of it. Of course you'll need to know what and how to mix for the proper finish as this will be a finished gel coating but I'm sure that info is on-line.

The other option which is easier and faster is to simply add a non-skid additive to a gelcoat mix, then just roll it on. I prefer the look that you get from the process noted above though.

Interesting. Glad you posted that.

How was it done originally at the factory?

[Viper]

Most likely part of the mold to keep production costs down.

[BenTen]

Its been a long few days as I worked to get the non skid back down on my decks. A day of sanding all original nonskid followed by thorough cleaning, acid wash, scrubbing and de-waxing. A full day of taping and trimming around all deck hardware. And today was close to a full day on my knees rolling the non skid on followed by pulling of all tape before it dried.

Nonskid with KiwiGrip:

[km1125]

Looks pretty good!! Can you get a close-up view so we can see what the texture looks like? Also, what techniques did you use to apply and would you do anything different if you had to do it again?

[BenTen]

I knew someone would ask, I just forgot to post the close up.

For technique- I found the following worked best for me. Using a 3" paint brush I would "plop" some product every 10inches or so and then using the same brush spread the product around in a normal painting motion. I then followed that with the textured roller and this allowed me to keep a uniform texture.

I have a few other tips that I'll share in another post that might help others who may be interested in trying KiwiGrip in the future.