Stripped deck screws
- RWS
- Deck Hand

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Stripped deck screws
1st time owner and bought an older boat.Yes I get the irony in that.Wanted to reseal the deck rail plate screws but some of them are stripped as well as some of the cleat screws. Thoughts,ideas.. help?
- RGrew176
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Re: Stripped deck screws
I've got an older Carver too. They may not be stripped. On my 81 all the deck rail plate screws as well as the cleats are through bolted. They might spin with a screwdriver but they are not stripped at least that is true in my case.
Rick Grew
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West River Yacht & Cruising Club
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- BenTen
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Re: Stripped deck screws
I concur with Rick as I found the same thing on my 84 Carver. At first I thought they were stripped as well but once the interior was disassembled I was able to access the nut and washer.
Thanks,
Ben in SC
Ben in SC
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Viper
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Re: Stripped deck screws
The guys are right, anything that is expected to handle high loads will likely be thru-bolted. The nuts are spinning when you try to remove the screw so you'll need to have a helper down below to hold the nut while you unscrew each fastener. Some applications incorporated a glassed in plate instead of using nuts. In those cases there's no need to dismantle interior areas to access and prevent nuts from moving while un-threading or securing fasteners.
- Renovatio
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Re: Stripped deck screws
Hi
I know the feeling. Every thing I touch seems to be a battle. We even decided against a Silverton because the rails are secured with bolts and are not accessible ,(not the only issue but along the line of more trouble than it was worth). So we would have to DRILL access holes at every point!
Maintenance is key.
So I’ve found the same as mentioned above. Although some of the details are important.
Always spray the bolt and nut with either WD-40 (water displacement- formula 40) or a nut loosening solvent first. As not to add to the stripped issue. If the heads are stripped. First find a NEW aggressive and sharp head screwdriver (worn will not help). Automotive stores are good quality.
( not a 4-way). Often there is build up/oxidation in the head. Place the screwdriver in the head and Rapp it in place. This will give you the maximum leverage to toque the screw and loosen the bolt.
Also screw stripped removal tools are available. Often used in wood screw applications or engine applications. Remember lube the nuts. You don’t want to cause more damage and have to drill them out.
If you need more help email
Larry

I know the feeling. Every thing I touch seems to be a battle. We even decided against a Silverton because the rails are secured with bolts and are not accessible ,(not the only issue but along the line of more trouble than it was worth). So we would have to DRILL access holes at every point!
Maintenance is key.
So I’ve found the same as mentioned above. Although some of the details are important.
Always spray the bolt and nut with either WD-40 (water displacement- formula 40) or a nut loosening solvent first. As not to add to the stripped issue. If the heads are stripped. First find a NEW aggressive and sharp head screwdriver (worn will not help). Automotive stores are good quality.
( not a 4-way). Often there is build up/oxidation in the head. Place the screwdriver in the head and Rapp it in place. This will give you the maximum leverage to toque the screw and loosen the bolt.
Also screw stripped removal tools are available. Often used in wood screw applications or engine applications. Remember lube the nuts. You don’t want to cause more damage and have to drill them out.
If you need more help email
Larry
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Viper
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Re: Stripped deck screws
Good points Larry. When he said "stripped" I assumed he meant that the fastener is spinning. Could very well be talking about stripped heads. If that's the case and you don't get anywhere with Larry's suggestions, get a Dremel tool and cut a straight slot in the screw head, then use a standard (straight) screw driver instead of a phillips.
- RWS
- Deck Hand

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Re: Stripped deck screws
Viper wrote:QR_BBPOST Good points Larry. When he said "stripped" I assumed he meant that the fastener is spinning. Could very well be talking about stripped heads. If that's the case and you don't get anywhere with Larry's suggestions, get a Dremel tool and cut a straight slot in the screw head, then use a standard (straight) screw driver instead of a phillips.
some screws came right out,caulked them and they went right back in good and tight and others just spin. on the ones that came out what is holding the nut?and how does one access the nut side, with out taking the interior of the boat apart?
- RWS
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Re: Stripped deck screws
On the ones I did get out they went back in tight, what holds the nut in place? How much interior disassembly was required?
- RWS
- Deck Hand

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Re: Stripped deck screws
Viper the glassed in plate makes sense as to how I could remove some and then tighten back up, Could the nuts in the glassed in plate have broken free and are now being allowed to turn?Viper wrote:QR_BBPOST The guys are right, anything that is expected to handle high loads will likely be thru-bolted. The nuts are spinning when you try to remove the screw so you'll need to have a helper down below to hold the nut while you unscrew each fastener. Some applications incorporated a glassed in plate instead of using nuts. In those cases there's no need to dismantle interior areas to access and prevent nuts from moving while un-threading or securing fasteners.
- km1125
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Re: Stripped deck screws
I have the same boat, but older ('83 3607). Which ones are you trying to remove? You can get to the inside on all of them. In the salon you have to remove the shelves (4 screws) from the cubby holes, then there are two covers each with 4 screws in each one. That opens up an area about 2' high and 40" long and gets access to anything on both sides of the salon.