Carver 36MY waste tank capacity

[Cliffm]

My wife and I have a 2006 Carver 36MY
The owners manual diagram says there's (2) 25-gal waste tanks, but the specification sheet says 36-gal total?
It would appear to us that the aft tank "fills up" quicker than the salon tank under the galley storage area.

Anyone have a definitive answer to this ? are both tanks rally the same size, but in our case 18 gal rather than 25 gal? or are they staggered in size, due to our 36MY floorplan and that aft tank is smaller, possibly only 11 gals?

Our aft tank monitoring system always reads half full, even after pumping out. Is there a special tool to get the monitoring cap loose/off the tank so I can clean each rod? I have banged on the "tabs" but hesitate to strike harder in fear of breaking off one or more of the tabs.

Any insight to this would be much appreciated.
Cliff & Beth Mathison
Renton Wa.

[Curly1]

I removed my waste tank 3" flange that holds the float switches yesterday. You will need either a strap wrench or chain wrench to wrap around the flange diameter to turn it out. I purchased a chain wrench which has an 18" long chain so you can adjust it to fit large diameters such as the 3" flange. It worked very well. In my Carver 466 they had butt connected all of the leads coming off the level switches. I had to cut these off, and when finished, I used bullet connectors so I could disconnect the leads for future cleaning. I removed the flange and cleaned and tested all three switches for continuity in a pail of water. My boat has the Tankwatch 4 electronic panel in each washroom. I found all three switches worked when testing. I found the longest switch is normally closed and opens on rise. The other two are normally open and close on rise. In any event, I found the problem is with the electronic boards. They are electronic, and after all, you should not expect more than 10-15 years out of most electronic equipment. My boat is 2004. They have over-complicated this board for what it does. I cannot find the components for this system anywhere (unless someone can advise where they are available), so I have to look at other options. I am going to remove the boards and take them to an electronics repair show to see if they can fix them. We have some good shops in Cambridge, Ontario that I have in mind. The other option is to make up a replacement for this with a board that I would make up. That would be simple enough, and I would only require a relay to cover the function for the empty/low level switch. I would have all lights come on consecutively until all are on at the full level. That would confirm for you that all switches work, rather than have an electronic board that translates the input signals ( when it fails, as the case here, you cannot be sure if the switches are not working or the board is not working). The other option is to replace the unit with a programmable smart relay. I have electrical background so this something I can do without a lot of trouble, but I would have to change my mounting arrangement. I hope this information helps.
Grant Eagle
Call Me Curly
Cambridge, Ontario, Canada

[Cliffm]

Source of the post I removed my waste tank 3" flange that holds the float switches yesterday. You will need either a strap wrench or chain wrench to wrap around the flange diameter to turn it out. I purchased a chain wrench which has an 18" long chain so you can adjust it to fit large diameters such as the 3" flange. It worked very well. In my Carver 466 they had butt connected all of the leads coming off the level switches. I had to cut these off, and when finished, I used bullet connectors so I could disconnect the leads for future cleaning. I removed the flange and cleaned and tested all three switches for continuity in a pail of water. My boat has the Tankwatch 4 electronic panel in each washroom. I found all three switches worked when testing. I found the longest switch is normally closed and opens on rise. The other two are normally open and close on rise. In any event, I found the problem is with the electronic boards. They are electronic, and after all, you should not expect more than 10-15 years out of most electronic equipment. My boat is 2004. They have over-complicated this board for what it does. I cannot find the components for this system anywhere (unless someone can advise where they are available), so I have to look at other options. I am going to remove the boards and take them to an electronics repair show to see if they can fix them. We have some good shops in Cambridge, Ontario that I have in mind. The other option is to make up a replacement for this with a board that I would make up. That would be simple enough, and I would only require a relay to cover the function for the empty/low level switch. I would have all lights come on consecutively until all are on at the full level. That would confirm for you that all switches work, rather than have an electronic board that translates the input signals ( when it fails, as the case here, you cannot be sure if the switches are not working or the board is not working). The other option is to replace the unit with a programmable smart relay. I have electrical background so this something I can do without a lot of trouble, but I would have to change my mounting arrangement. I hope this information helps.
Grant Eagle
Call Me Curly
Cambridge, Ontario, Canada

Thanks you Curly, for the feedback, hadn't considered the circuit board as the culprit, will now!

[Cliffm]

I'm still polling those with similar systems, as to what the capacities are ? obviously not (2) 25 gl tanks, so what are they really? and are they the same size?

[g36]

If you call carver with your hull I'd number they should be able to tell you what tanks were installed on your boat

[tomschauer]

My 355 has two 18 gallon tanks. You may have the same?
Also debris may be holding your mid float in the up "tripped" position.
As far as removing the cap, I used a very large pair of channel locks and had no issue. Floats for both my tanks were "a bit dirty". I was able to clean and free them up, reinstalled and they worked for a bit, but then when pumping out my forward tank, I found a blockage. It was one of the floats. I guess they were to old and brittle. Sooo, I bought two new sets of floats, again, opened up the tanks and replaced the floats.
I say this because, if yours are 13 years old, you may just want to do it once with new floats. Its not a real fun project.

[Cliffm]

Source of the post My 355 has two 18 gallon tanks. You may have the same?
Also debris may be holding your mid float in the up "tripped" position.
As far as removing the cap, I used a very large pair of channel locks and had no issue. Floats for both my tanks were "a bit dirty". I was able to clean and free them up, reinstalled and they worked for a bit, but then when pumping out my forward tank, I found a blockage. It was one of the floats. I guess they were to old and brittle. Sooo, I bought two new sets of floats, again, opened up the tanks and replaced the floats.
I say this because, if yours are 13 years old, you may just want to do it once with new floats. Its not a real fun project.

now that's excellent feedback, and proactive!
I like it, thanks!
I too have very large pair of channel lock pliers that I can try, but still debating the "gas tank sender" removal tool on amazon for $20 USD, as it's adjustable and modifiable!