New to me Carver 3227. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

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- Vessel Info: 2003 Viking Princess 65
1988 Carver 3207 Convertible
1971 Hatteras 38 Convertible
2005 Boston Whaler 15 Montauk - Location: Freeport, TX
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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
We replaced the fill-hose. it appeared to be cracked and I was scared it would leak vapors into the engine compartment. The vent hose is blocked somewhere and I need to check it when I return to the marina (sigh) - I think I will get some time next Monday or so.
- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
We replaced the Fill hose - it was cracked and you could smell the vapors off of it. I know that vent is blocked somewhere so that is on my list to check. Unfortunately, I won't be able to visit the marina until next week Monday.
- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

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1988 Carver 3207 Convertible
1971 Hatteras 38 Convertible
2005 Boston Whaler 15 Montauk - Location: Freeport, TX
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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
Here are couple pics:
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- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

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1988 Carver 3207 Convertible
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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
some more
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- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

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1988 Carver 3207 Convertible
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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
Here is the inside Helm
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- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

- Posts: 65
- Joined: May 2nd, 2019, 5:55 pm
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1988 Carver 3207 Convertible
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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
Can anyone ID the generator in the third pic? so I can look up a manual? Is it a Kohler?
- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
I am referring to below. The water in the bilge is gone now - elec was not hooked and batteries were dead when I walk-through the first time with the broker. Had to borrow cables from my other boat to charge batteries and drain the bilge. Did not notice oil in water at that time (I wasn't looking for it so not sure)
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Viper
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Re: New to me Carver 3207. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
The compartment under the top cover where you pull out the dipstick is the heat exchanger/oil cooler for the unit. The water comes in on the right in the pic and passes over the oil cooling coils in the compartment on its way out the other side. There is nowhere for the oil to go but in the bilge or out the engine exhaust.
The generator looks like a 7.5R23. Take a look at this manual and download it if it's the right one...
https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/Generator/Kohler_7_5Gas_TP5045.pdf
The generator looks like a 7.5R23. Take a look at this manual and download it if it's the right one...
https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/Generator/Kohler_7_5Gas_TP5045.pdf
- tjfsrq
- Scurvy Dog

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Re: New to me Carver 3227. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
Your V-drive does not take transmission fluid. It takes 30 weight non detergent oil. It is either a Walters RV-20 or a later model is the RV-26, the difference being the 26 had the ability for a reverse idler option so both engines can have the same rotation.
On the top of the case of the V-drive, there is a plate with 8, 1/2' course thread bolts in it. Carefully take the plate off, the bolts are into a sand casting, so if you strip them out you will have to get stainless steel inserts to take up as threads. Unter the top plate there is a paper thin gasket, taking the plate off reveals a squiggly s-shped oil cooler that cools the v-drive oil. Also, you will note the raw water feed and discharge fittings feed raw water togo through the top half of the casing If yo have a hole in the nickle oil cooler loop, that is where your oil is going out with your raw water. You may also have a hole in the top of the case itself, in this case it will suck the oil out of the v-drive as you run and it will go bye bye with the raw water. The only other place it could leak is on the rear side, at the pump, or at the hoses that connect to the pump, which by the way is just a lube pump, not a pump for hydraulics. Chances are you have a hole inside the case that you will see once you take the top plate cover off.
If you call Walters in Jersey City, NJ, they may or may not have RV-20 cases in stock. Once in a great while they would do a run of them, but they are cast so if none in stock your choice is to move to an RV-26 which is slightly different, but still has the ratio relatively close, at 2.05 to one to the RV-20 2 .0 to one. Transmission Marine in Fort Lauderdale (Fort Liquordale to me) rebuilt one for me and got a new case on another. They did great work and they last for a long time as long as you keep oil in them. A bit of chatter at low idle speed from them is normal, as that is torque warp, and the same is true about the pump pressure index light, at idle it will flicker. Once you kick the RPM's up the index light should go off.
These were and are reliable, well built components, and were on thousands of Luhrs and Silverton boats before Carver built their first engine stuffed in backwards hull. By the way, mine is a 3227 as well.
On the top of the case of the V-drive, there is a plate with 8, 1/2' course thread bolts in it. Carefully take the plate off, the bolts are into a sand casting, so if you strip them out you will have to get stainless steel inserts to take up as threads. Unter the top plate there is a paper thin gasket, taking the plate off reveals a squiggly s-shped oil cooler that cools the v-drive oil. Also, you will note the raw water feed and discharge fittings feed raw water togo through the top half of the casing If yo have a hole in the nickle oil cooler loop, that is where your oil is going out with your raw water. You may also have a hole in the top of the case itself, in this case it will suck the oil out of the v-drive as you run and it will go bye bye with the raw water. The only other place it could leak is on the rear side, at the pump, or at the hoses that connect to the pump, which by the way is just a lube pump, not a pump for hydraulics. Chances are you have a hole inside the case that you will see once you take the top plate cover off.
If you call Walters in Jersey City, NJ, they may or may not have RV-20 cases in stock. Once in a great while they would do a run of them, but they are cast so if none in stock your choice is to move to an RV-26 which is slightly different, but still has the ratio relatively close, at 2.05 to one to the RV-20 2 .0 to one. Transmission Marine in Fort Lauderdale (Fort Liquordale to me) rebuilt one for me and got a new case on another. They did great work and they last for a long time as long as you keep oil in them. A bit of chatter at low idle speed from them is normal, as that is torque warp, and the same is true about the pump pressure index light, at idle it will flicker. Once you kick the RPM's up the index light should go off.
These were and are reliable, well built components, and were on thousands of Luhrs and Silverton boats before Carver built their first engine stuffed in backwards hull. By the way, mine is a 3227 as well.
- mobinakhtar
- Deck Hand

- Posts: 65
- Joined: May 2nd, 2019, 5:55 pm
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1988 Carver 3207 Convertible
1971 Hatteras 38 Convertible
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Re: New to me Carver 3227. Questions about v-drive & Generator - owners please help
This is great information tjfsrq. Surprisingly, last two trips, I did not lose any oil in the SB V-drive - I am using Shell Rotella T-30 wt non-detergent motor oil.
I lost an engine (Port) on my way back couple of weeks ago and found the coil became loose, earthed with the V of the engine, and burnt on return. Upon replacing, still no spark. Dealing with that right now. Have not checked the distributor cap yet for point failure.
Its freezing here so have not done much except take the cockpit floor out. That helps tremendously!
I lost an engine (Port) on my way back couple of weeks ago and found the coil became loose, earthed with the V of the engine, and burnt on return. Upon replacing, still no spark. Dealing with that right now. Have not checked the distributor cap yet for point failure.
Its freezing here so have not done much except take the cockpit floor out. That helps tremendously!