Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Discussion of AC's, plumbing and sanitation related issues.
Post Reply
User avatar
ontariojeff
Scurvy Dog
Scurvy Dog
Posts: 16
Joined: February 19th, 2022, 9:32 pm
Vessel Info: 2003 Carver 570
Location: Florida
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Post by ontariojeff »

Hello,

I have two cruise air systems and both seem to be loosing coolant.
I think the leak may be out of the pressure fittings.

I have seen a product that claims to be some sort of "stop leak" fluid. and another product to locate or "smell" for leaks.
I am thinking of soldering or fixing the leaks and then re charging the system.
R22? and some gauges.

Any advise on how to go about this?

Thanks.
User avatar
km1125
Admiral
Admiral
Posts: 3657
Joined: February 28th, 2017, 6:04 pm
Has thanked: 81 times
Been thanked: 1114 times

Re: Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Post by km1125 »

Don't use a stop-leak. There are electronic detectors that you can get (link below) that will 'sniff' to help you locate the actual leak. Then you can determine if it's actually repairable with solder or even perhaps just cleaning and tightening the fitting.

Is it R-22?? That's starting to get pretty expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Elitech-WJL-6000 ... 664&sr=8-2
User avatar
tomschauer
Admiral
Admiral
Posts: 2323
Joined: March 28th, 2016, 10:52 pm
Vessel Info: 1998 Carver 355
Suspicious Fishes !
2022 Kawasaki 310X
Location: upper chesapeake bay
Has thanked: 326 times
Been thanked: 602 times

Re: Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Post by tomschauer »

Do not use a stop leak. It will cause more problems than it will repair.
You can use a refrigerant leak detector as mentioned, or simple soap bubbles are usually the best. You need to find the leak, recover the r-22, purge nitrogen through the system while you braze the leak (if its repairable), then evacuate the system and charge the new r-22 by weight.

Before you do all that what makes you think your systems are leaking?
User avatar
ontariojeff
Scurvy Dog
Scurvy Dog
Posts: 16
Joined: February 19th, 2022, 9:32 pm
Vessel Info: 2003 Carver 570
Location: Florida
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Post by ontariojeff »

Thanks for the replies,

I had the larger one filled $350 and the smaller one $450 !!
they lasted less than one week. My thermostat is reading
"low ps" again...

Although I have read that you need a to take an online license to buy r22, Ebay has 5 lb. full tank for $300 and a 10Lb tank for $360, don't seem to need a license to order.
and a gauge set for $60.

I was quoted $3,600 to remove a unit, solder up the fittings leak and re install it!
So I'm considering it a "no brainer" to attempt this myself.

I am wondering about how much coolant and what pressure to use? 50-70?
20220409_111920[1].jpg
20220409_111900[1].jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
km1125
Admiral
Admiral
Posts: 3657
Joined: February 28th, 2017, 6:04 pm
Has thanked: 81 times
Been thanked: 1114 times

Re: Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Post by km1125 »

ontariojeff wrote:QR_BBPOST
<snip>
I am wondering about how much coolant and what pressure to use? 50-70?
20220409_111920[1].jpg
20220409_111900[1].jpg
Offhand, not sure on the pressures, but the amount of refrigerant would likely be 16-28oz. Many have that listed in the specs on the attached sticker.
User avatar
tomschauer
Admiral
Admiral
Posts: 2323
Joined: March 28th, 2016, 10:52 pm
Vessel Info: 1998 Carver 355
Suspicious Fishes !
2022 Kawasaki 310X
Location: upper chesapeake bay
Has thanked: 326 times
Been thanked: 602 times

Re: Repair and Charge Cruise Air

Post by tomschauer »

OK, I didn't see at first you have a 570. From your pics, and with that size boat, your compressors / condensers are remote. So you have a lot of places to develop leaks. If you don't find and repair the leaks, you will be spending $$$ constantly and before long your compressors will fail due to oil loss. (oil is circulated with the refrigerant)
Look and feel around any connections at the condensers and evaporators for oil and dirt. Start there with a soap bubble test. You most likley have flare connections at both ends. That is the best place to start.
Post Reply