VicB wrote:QR_BBPOST So, somebody converted it to electronic ignition before I got it. Now with that said, I’m going to show my hand here. There are springs in the distributor and they are rusty. I liberally spray them with lubricant from time to time, but the points and condensers are gone. I’ve had the distributors out to remove the intake manifold on the starboard engine. When I put it back, I set initial and total timing and it fell right on the curve in the crusader manual timing chart. So if there is a 3 wire doughnut in place of points and condensers but still has springs is that considered electronic ignition with mechanical advance? Awesome catch on the anodes. One reason I don’t want it to be props is because the local place that did my bottom job and put the anode in upside down went out of business and the closest travel lift is 2 days away. BTW, I have always appreciated your posts and wisdom. You’ve been a huge help to me and many others. I need you to move to North Alabama.
Yes, if you have an electronic pickup to replace the points, but still have the springs in the distributor, then you have a mechanical advance. When you checked the base and total timing, did you check at all RPMs (at least up to 3200RPM or so?)
Even if the springs are rusty, can you rotate the rotor a bit and does it go quickly back to the initial position??
If the springs are weak then they might be adding to base timing and never achieve full mechanical advance (because you "baked in" too much of that advance when setting base timing). If your base timing at idle is around 10-12 and the timing advances to around 30-35 then you're OK, but if not you have some work to do on that mechanical advance.
You wrote "We normally run 2000 - 2500 rpm which is 10-12 mph." but initially said you could hit 3500 RPMs. What speed do you get to at 3500 RPM? Are you up on plane?
I am going to add to the timing part..........if the springs are rusty and tired then your full timing could be coming in at the wrong time....not good. Marine engines require a timing curve that applies advance at the correct rpm's as the engine is revving up, that way you get on plane without detonation, more than just a total number, kinda like " it's the journey not just the destination.".....
So, I’d need to exercise it again to make sure, but when I cleaned them in the fall, they would turn and snap back without anything unusual, although I really wasn’t looking, I was opening the springs to lubricate them. When I set the timing on both (I replaced the valve stem umbrella seals) engines, I set initial to 10* and verified up through 2000rpm that it followed the curve in the crusader manual. I only went to 2000 as it was in neutral and wasn’t sure if it was ok to rev up in the 3000 range. It followed points in the curve at 700, 1000, 1500 and 2000 or close, so I thought it was good? Now here’s a tell tale that something is wrong. At 3500 the wake starts to really narrow and the stern is ALMOST about to stop plowing and get up on top of the water, but that’s WOT. Kicker is, I would say it almost achieves plane, but doesn’t quite get there. Another 200 rpm and it’d be there. It may very well be something I’m not doing or doing wrong with timing. Love messing with these engines and learning more about them.
It will be ok to run the engines to 3000 to check advance curve so long as it is smooth, Actually, check both engines, don't assume it is the one you had worked on, if one side is bad it will hold the other back.
Also make sure you have full wide open throttle on both sides using your helm sticks.........are your tabs working correctly ??
One other thing I remembered....do you have an engine synchronizer gage on the dash? If so, when powering up does the needle stay in the middle between port and starboard or go to one side and slowly return to center as the speed increases ??
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