Propane Canisters for Cooktop

[Dusty Bilges]

My 1993 300 Sedan no longer has the original Princess combination electric/alcohol cooktop. I installed a two burner LPG cooktop. See attached photo. I have not installed any gas fittings yet. It is my intention to use Flame King, refillable half-pound LPG canisters which will be under and a couple feet away from the cooktop. The canister will be attached to cut-off valve which then attaches to the regulator from which a 30-inch hose will connect to the unit. I know that propane has to be handled carefully. I also know that the ABYC rules permit using a canister inside if it is not over 8 ounces, and the rules also permit a one-pound canister inside if safely stored outside when not in use. I am a little confused about which regulator to get. The cooktop just says low pressure, 11 WC. Do these regulators vent? If any of you have rigged your galley similarly, your advice is appreciated.

Dusty

[pepmyster]

Not sure on my end but just want to say that is one cool stove top! Congrats!

[Viper]

Some regulators vent excessive pressure or at least they used to, like if the area gets hot for any reason.

BTW, you should really check with your insurance company about that, it might void your coverage.

[Dusty Bilges]

Thank you. The hardware store regulator I bought doesn't have a vent opening, so we'll see what happens. I also bought a handheld propane gas detector with a little wand that samples the air around a fitting. Just to be safe I will not have any propane below decks when not in use, plus I bought brass caps that screw on the canisters.

[bud37]

Fyi....just be aware that propane gas is heavier than air and will seek lower areas if leaked, unlike nat gas that just rises and is assimilated into the surrounding air relatively easily. Propane will sit there until dissipated. Please be careful with that knowledge.That is what makes it so dangerous and why they lay out storage areas that are sealed and properly vented.

Perhaps you know this but I thought to mention it as others may not.

[MyPleasure]

Hi Dusty Bilges, I have the 3608, or 3607, whichever, but I want to change out the electric stove/oven for propane. When I consulted my insurance company, they were adamant that it be a “marine” stove/oven, not an “RV” stove/ oven.
Personally I don’t know what the difference is in the stove themselves. I put an RV stove in my 36 Uniflite and had no problems at all, and there was a huge difference in price. I installed propane sensors and electric shut off valves below the stove and at the connection to the tank.
I would definitely contact your insurance company and confirm that your new stove is allowed. It does look awesome by the way!

[Viper]

Ya as I mentioned earlier that is one sure means for an insurance company to get out of a claim. Even if it’s an approved marine unit it usually affects your insurance rate as propane is higher risk. If it’s a good surveyor next time, this will be a red flag on your survey which I’m sure your insurance company will demand you remedy or risk terminating coverage.

[camsaure@aol.com]

I think the main difference between marine and RV is the oven and pilot light. The pilot light valve shuts off when you turn off the oven and must be manually relit while holding down a safety button. At least that is how it is on my old Mariner. The propane was out back on the swim deck. You could easily run a line from the swim deck to your stovetop. You also should have a gauge on your low pressure regulator. This helps detect leaks. Turn it on then shut it off and it should hold pressure for a considerable time. Mine holds overnight. You are also supposed to to shut off the tank after each use also. I use the small compact 5lb or 10 pound cylinders and they last quite a while. While I am sure you can and will safely use your system your insurance guy may have other ideas as mentioned. Nice stovetop that you got I must mention.