feeez wrote:Qr Bbpost One further note on the case ground. The instructions also state that this must also be connected to the boat's bonding system. I assume this one of those plates affixed to the hull in various locations.
Thanks Fraser
They refer to connecting to buses for the purpose of minimizing wire connections at the batteries. The only wires that should be hooked up to batteries are main battery cables to feed buses, branch circuits, engines, etc. and in the case of this charger, a temp probe.
The chassis ground is often connected to the engine block simply for convenience but a bonding system bus bar is fine too if easier to get at as the two are electrically connected. You just need to ensure the wire size is as stated in the installation manual.
The chassis ground is a more recent development since the original install. It is there in case there is a DC to chassis fault. It's done this way because of the high DC currents involved which an AC ground can't handle safely enough to protect the circuit. If you don't wire the chassis, your breaker won't trip in a DC to chassis fault. If there is an AC to chassis fault, the AC ground wire will easily handle the fault.
feeez wrote:Qr Bbpost One further note on the case ground. The instructions also state that this must also be connected to the boat's bonding system. I assume this one of those plates affixed to the hull in various locations.
Thanks Fraser
They refer to connecting to buses for the purpose of minimizing wire connections at the batteries. The only wires that should be hooked up to batteries are main battery cables to feed buses, branch circuits, engines, etc. and in the case of this charger, a temp probe.
The chassis ground is often connected to the engine block simply for convenience but a bonding system bus bar is fine too if easier to get at as the two are electrically connected. You just need to ensure the wire size is as stated in the installation manual.
The chassis ground is a more recent development since the original install. It is there in case there is a DC to chassis fault. It's done this way because of the high DC currents involved which an AC ground can't handle safely enough to protect the circuit. If you don't wire the chassis, your breaker won't trip in a DC to chassis fault. If there is an AC to chassis fault, the AC ground wire will easily handle the fault.
I did a successful install of the battery charger yesterday. I was quite impressed with how "plug and play" the Promariner charger was to install. The only adjustment I had to make was the battery type and the charger brought all three battery banks to maintenance mode in just a few hours.
Next project for me in the battery world is to tackle all of the negative wiring around my batteries and introduce a buss to hopefully simplify it. Right now there are black wires running all over the place.
The reason I asked is because the factory default setting on their chargers is flooded but you said you had to adjust the setting. Was it not already set to flooded out of the box?
Viper wrote:Qr Bbpost The reason I asked is because the factory default setting on their chargers is flooded but you said you had to adjust the setting. Was it not already set to flooded out of the box?
Viper wrote:Qr Bbpost That's a first for me, and I've done dozens of installs of those. Must have been their night shift crew
Did you get the remote display?
I have been considering adding the promariner 63100 remote to my 1250P charger this year. I have been hunting around for some detailed information as to what all the functions it performs to see if it is worth installing.... no luck Anyone have this already? I have a Victron monitor hooked up to my house bank already. Does this unit give me more or is it just duplication?
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