winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

[cpoint]

Thanks viper, will do.

[Viper]

Qr Bbpost ....so are you saying if I open the drain faucet on the hot water tank and pink stuff comes out and finally nothing comes out it's not empty? If it is empty, should I still remove the lines to it?....

Your tank is empty and now that you've already winterized the system, there is no need to by-pass the heater. Normally you by-pass so that you don't have to fill it full of antifreeze which in most cases is 11 gallons.

As mentioned above, I have a concern with the way you winterized the system in that you didn't empty or by-pass the hot water tank first. So what you ended up doing was sending antifreeze into the hot water tank and mixing it with the water in there, effectively diluting it, and sending that mixture through the system to winterize your lines. If I were you, I would take a sample of what's in your lines and test it. If you don't get a protection reading satisfactory for your area, you have a problem that will need to be remedied before things freeze up.

If you're still in the water and you can't close the seacock, I don't see how you're going to winterize the AC given that the strainer and pump are below the water line. As soon as you open the strainer, you'll get raw water pouring out. Are you still in the water??

[cpoint]

Actually I did empty the hot water tank before starting the treatment, maybe I missed clarifying that upfront. It was empty when I sent antifreeze to it. So we are good on that.

However I just realized, what about the head emancipator, do I winterize that. I am not allowed to pump it out where I am, Also its not sanitary, I don't want to touch it. I think my tanks are clean with 2-3 gallons antifreeze in it. But if I dumped, not sure anything unpleasant would go out other than antifreeze. whats the best way to winterize that?

[Viper]

If you're not allowed to use the overboard discharge in your area, it should be disconnected, and the overboard line removed and seacock capped off. A lot of people simply close the seacock and remove the handle so it can't be opened in case one is temped to use it should they suddenly find their tank full while away from a pump out. The macerator should also be disconnected electrically. The problem as we've been discussing lately is that seacocks sometimes leak. This causes two problems; the first is that any water still in the leaking valve over the winter will split the valve which will necessitate a haul out the following spring to replace the seasock. Secondly, the leaking seacock will allow raw water into the system and your macerator. Again, this will split if it freezes.

Depending on the type of overboard discharge hook up you have, you may or may not always have waste in the lines and macerator. Some systems are more complicated than others so you need to know what you have. If you suspect there is fluid in that circuit, you must winterize it. This isn't always as simple as just pouring antifreeze into the holding tank. The best way to winterize it if you're out of the water and the system is operational is to ensure your tank is pumped out and flushed first, then fill with some antifreeze and operate the macerator for overboard discharge. When pink comes out through the discharge, you're done.

Personally, if it's illegal to use in your area, I would remove the entire system including the lines and macerator, and cap off the seacock or better yet remove the seacock and cap off the thru-hull fitting. If you do this and decide to keep the seacock and just cap it off, make sure you leave it in the open position. This way, you don't have to worry about a closed valve leaking and retaining water over the winter.

[cpoint]

Well I don't use it, I have not used it. But it is not illegal in the area, only in certain parts. So I don't want to completely remove it. Also I am not planning to hauling the boat out before or during winterizing. So I need to deal with it while in the water. But there is definitely water in the line all the way to sea cock. Maybe I can blow air out of it with shop vac? and close the seacock.

[Viper]

Qr Bbpost Actually I did empty the hot water tank before starting the treatment.....

Okay. Not the way I read the post but if that's the case then all good.

[Viper]

Qr Bbpost ....I am not planning to hauling the boat out before or during winterizing......

Does your boat stay in the water for the winter?

[cpoint]

yes it will

[cpoint]

Ran into another problem. Remember that missing handle on the seacock for AC that I mentioned earlier, well I tried to shut it off. I open the strainers top and found out it does not completely shut off. meaning I can't winterize it as is. Meaning I have to get it out of water to replace the seacock now. I think port side engine intake also does not close completely. So I am going to check all before the yard pulls it out of the water to make sure I replace all bad ones. Unless some one can tell me something better? I think there are 4 of them to my knowledge. 1 for each; AC, port engine, starboard engine, generator and macerator. But I think macerator seacock is OK, because when I shut it of no water comes back to holding tank, where as if its open, water fills the holding tank.

In regards to capping the seacock, I suggested that to the yard as a quick fix, and in spring I would get it replaced, but one person there who is not a mechanic said, what if cap blows because of pressure, it'll flood. I don't think it will blow, it's a small stream of water, I don't think there is that much pressure, otherwise the hose would blow? any thoughts?

[Viper]

Qr Bbpost....found out it does not completely shut off......I think port side engine intake also does not close completely....

This is why I don't winterize in the water! In your case it's different as you're staying in for the winter but for those that aren't, this is what I meant before.

Qr Bbpost.....I think macerator seacock is OK, because when I shut it of no water comes back to holding tank, where as if its open, water fills the holding tank.

To be sure, close the seacock and remove the hose. Then you'll be able to see if the seacock is leaking.

Qr Bbpost..... In regards to capping the seacock,....what if cap blows because of pressure.....

When you cap off a seacock, you remove the hose off the barbed fitting, and remove the fitting from the seacock then screw in a brass plug of the correct size until you get the seacock replaced. Leave the seacock open after you install the plug.

Get all the different sized plugs that you need first, winterize, then install the plugs. Is there a reason why you would want to put off replacement until Spring? If you do it now, you'll save the trouble of dismantling and installing parts that'll just be removed again.