ProMariner Combi Inverter Chargers

[Helmsman]

Source of the post Yes I've installed all the ones mentioned above, even older Xantrex with no issues. I've also installed Promariners both in and out of engine compartments. No heat related issues with engine compartment installs but every boat is. Before you go that route, take your boat out on a regular run, then shut it down, wait about 15 minutes and quickly take a temp reading with an IR gun at a metal object that's down low in the bilge in an area where you might be able to install the unit and see what the temp is. If it's too high, you'll need an alternative location. If I had to buy a unit for myself, I'd probably go with Magnum.

The issue I'd have a hard time deciding is how I would hook it up; don't know that I would use the shore power pass through method. That seems to be the biggest problem I've run into with any brand incorporating that feature. When that fails, you could lose all AC power from the dock unless designs have changed more recently. The alternative is to install a source selector switch/breaker where you would select the AC source manually. Less to go wrong IMO.

No matter which one you go with, read the installation instructions carefully and follow the marine installation procedures. Don't skimp on material quality. Use marine quality connectors and wiring. If you don't, it'll be unsafe and won't pass a survey by a qualified surveyor next time you have one done to satisfy the insurance company, or a potential boat buyer.

In shopping for one I guess I would have to try to find one that has all of the other “bells and whistles”without the pass through if they make them without that feature.

Materials, I plan on using only marine rated cabling/wiring from a marine vendor.

The area I have for the house 6 v batteries is 10 3/8” wide. The batteries are 10 1/8” to 10 1/4” wide so that will be tight. It will just fit 4 of those with room for two 12 volt for the engines. That is using the current battery well.

If I go Aft to the back of the boat, the cabling is probably 9’ to connect the (two 6 volt configured to 12 volt) house batteries and maintain balance to port and starboard, and then an additional 12 ft to the inverter. So a total DC run of 40 to 45 feet.

Again, I would disconnect the house battery from the 60 amp Charles charger 5000 SP and just leave the two engine batteries. One concern there is the “uncovered” positive lead left. I have read that some chargers won’t charge any batteries if one is left “uncovered”. Do you guys have any thoughts on that?

[Helmsman]

Source of the post One thing that's nice with a combo inverter/charger, is that they can regulate the charger to avoid overloading the circuit when there are other loads. I'm not sure if this applies to all inverter/chargers, but the Heart Interface inverter (branded WestMarine) I had did that. If there are large loads going through the inverter (from shore), then it will reduce the charger so it won't overload the input breaker.

I'm looking at a similar setup as you describe.... having a small dual output charger for the engine batteries, then a large charger (combined with the inverter) dedicated to the house.

That seems like a good feature to add to the list.

[Viper]

Source of the post .....One concern there is the “uncovered” positive lead left. I have read that some chargers won’t charge any batteries if one is left “uncovered”. Do you guys have any thoughts on that?

That is true for some chargers, you can't leave an empty output. The solution is to jump the empty output to one that is being used.

Source of the post....If I go Aft to the back of the boat, the cabling is probably 9’ to connect the (two 6 volt configured to 12 volt) house batteries and maintain balance to port and starboard, and then an additional 12 ft to the inverter. So a total DC run of 40 to 45 feet.....

How far from the batteries to the inverter and back to batteries?

[Midnightsun]

What exactly are you guys intending to run off of the inverter that requires such an elaborate and costly setup may I ask. I have had a large 2500w Heart Interface/charger combo and a simpler 1000w inverter install on previous boats but honestly would never go back. A decent size house bank of 4-6 6v batteries, a 300-400 watt solar array, a small 400-500w pure sine wave inverter to handle audio video and other small stuff combined with running the generator for the peak loads such as cooking 3 times a day for short periods is the best way to go IMHO.

All inductive loads such as heating, stove, hair dryers, toasters, water heater and needless to say AC should not even be considered for inverter loads. Will these work, yes they will however you better have one heck of a battery bank and the ability and time to replenish the bank if you want to use it again without visiting shore power in the very near future.

Over the years of hearing various discussions on this topic I have come to realize the number 1 reason most do all this in order to have quiet coffee in the morning which I may add is when your bank is at the lowest it can be after running the refrigerator(s) all night long. Would it not be better at this time to add some amps as opposed to another large inductive draw to the already somewhat depleted bank? Investing the same or probably less money in a sound shield and gensep muffler system will make your generator almost imperceptible.

[Helmsman]

Source of the post
How far from the batteries to the inverter and back to batteries?

If I were to put batteries in the back, the run from the first battery in the bank (port aft) and back would be 24 feet. From the last battery (starboard aft) would be 42 feet.

[Helmsman]

Source of the post What exactly are you guys intending to run off of the inverter that requires such an elaborate and costly setup may I ask. I have had a large 2500w Heart Interface/charger combo and a simpler 1000w inverter install on previous boats but honestly would never go back. A decent size house bank of 4-6 6v batteries, a 300-400 watt solar array, a small 400-500w pure sine wave inverter to handle audio video and other small stuff combined with running the generator for the peak loads such as cooking 3 times a day for short periods is the best way to go IMHO.

All inductive loads such as heating, stove, hair dryers, toasters, water heater and needless to say AC should not even be considered for inverter loads. Will these work, yes they will however you better have one heck of a battery bank and the ability and time to replenish the bank if you want to use it again without visiting shore power in the very near future.

Over the years of hearing various discussions on this topic I have come to realize the number 1 reason most do all this in order to have quiet coffee in the morning which I may add is when your bank is at the lowest it can be after running the refrigerator(s) all night long. Would it not be better at this time to add some amps as opposed to another large inductive draw to the already somewhat depleted bank? Investing the same or probably less money in a sound shield and gensep muffler system will make your generator almost imperceptible.

I don’t see it as elaborate. A 2000 watt inverter with a 450 amp hour house battery set up seems like a reasonable solution for two or three night trips, having family and friends out for the day, using the tv’s, setting up a tv in the cockpit for ball games, microwave use, running the ice maker, charging phones, protecting against battery discharge, and a cup of coffee

[Helmsman]

Source of the post Yes I've installed all the ones mentioned above, even older Xantrex with no issues. I've also installed Promariners both in and out of engine compartments. No heat related issues with engine compartment installs but every boat is. Before you go that route, take your boat out on a regular run, then shut it down, wait about 15 minutes and quickly take a temp reading with an IR gun at a metal object that's down low in the bilge in an area where you might be able to install the unit and see what the temp is. If it's too high, you'll need an alternative location.

I will give that a try. Have to wait to de-winterize in late March, but not planning the install until April. I have a Tempstick thermometer that communicates online so will use that where I would put it. The ProMariner high temp is 104 degrees in their manual, I think. It would seem the engine compartment would be higher than that. The chargers are on a bulkhead in front of the engines (about three feet or so)

Source of the post The issue I'd have a hard time deciding is how I would hook it up; don't know that I would use the shore power pass through method. That seems to be the biggest problem I've run into with any brand incorporating that feature. When that fails, you could lose all AC power from the dock unless designs have changed more recently. The alternative is to install a source selector switch/breaker where you would select the AC source manually. Less to go wrong IMO

Would the manual switch be placed on the AC line to the inverter after the panel or before the panel and after the automatic generator relay? I have two 30 amp panels. The plan is to provide power to the inverter from the side that has The AC/Battery chargers and then supply power from the inverter to the other side which has the outlets, microwave etc.

[Viper]

Source of the post....seems like a reasonable solution for two or three night trips,.... running the ice maker, .....protecting against battery discharge, and a cup of coffee...

Hans is right in saying that it's not practical for using an inverter for these types of loads. Not saying it can't be done but depending on the amount of use you're planning for these types of loads, you may need a larger bank than you think, especially high amp loads that take a while to complete a cycle like a coffee maker, and while the ice maker doesn't draw too much when not being used, it will add up if you open the door and use ice. It would then be a continuous draw. Of coarse if you don't have a generator, then the consideration is understandable.

Not sure what you mean by "protecting against battery discharge." If you're referring to an automatic shut-down feature which most inverters have when the bank depletes to a certain voltage, then the statement makes sense, otherwise they do not protect against battery discharge, rather the opposite during operation.

Source of the post..... Would the manual switch be placed on the AC line to the inverter after the panel or before the panel and after the automatic generator relay? I have two 30 amp panels. The plan is to provide power to the inverter from the side that has The AC/Battery chargers and then supply power from the inverter to the other side which has the outlets, microwave etc.

Personally, I am not a big fan of the automatic switching solenoids...more to go wrong and it complicates this type of installation. If it were me, I would remove them, install a source selector switch ("Shore, Generator, Inverter, Off" and hook up all the sources to it. The output from the switch would hook up to your panel the same way the source is hooked up now. This would only power up one side of your panel. To get power to the second side of your panel from a single source, you'd need to combine the two legs. There may already be a means by which this is done when the generator is running so it may be easy to replicate for the inverter source.

[Viper]

Source of the post....If I were to put batteries in the back, the run from the first battery in the bank (port aft) and back would be 24 feet. From the last battery (starboard aft) would be 42 feet.

So it's a 42' circuit length. That's too long IMO. The circuit is measured from the furthest battery of the bank. You'd use that measurement to calculate the size wire you'd need and that would be used to parallel the starb and port batteries (one bank), and hook up to your inverter with the same gauge. You'll likely be doubling up on your cabling on both pos and neg runs. Depends on the inverter you get. The cost of the cable alone will be pretty pricey if that's the case.

Do you have a generator?

[Midnightsun]

Source of the post

Source of the post....If I were to put batteries in the back, the run from the first battery in the bank (port aft) and back would be 24 feet. From the last battery (starboard aft) would be 42 feet.

So it's a 42' circuit length. That's too long IMO. The circuit is measured from the furthest battery of the bank. You'd use that measurement to calculate the size wire you'd need and that would be used to parallel the starb and port batteries (one bank), and hook up to your inverter with the same gauge. You'll likely be doubling up on your cabling on both pos and neg runs. Depends on the inverter you get. The cost of the cable alone will be pretty pricey if that's the case.

Do you have a generator?

The wire will cost more than the inverter not to mention the 450 AH battery bank is much too small IMHO for the intended use. Remember, of the 450 you can safely use around 225 before recharging now you can only quick charge about 80% of that so that means you can put back in around 180ah and the rest takes a heck of a long time since it is basically a float charge. Your first night you will do fine, it's the second night you will notice how low you are and then the third will be running the generator for extended periods trying to get the juice back in. Been there done that.