Which bilge pump switch?

[CptBacardi]

Yeeeeeees! It’s just another breaker on the battery switch panel under the staircase! As you can see below, the forward bilge breaker was tripped. I flipped it, then pulled up on the float switch, and it worked! For about 2 seconds... then it tripped again. I looked under the panel and found that it’s another 7.5a breaker. I had to put a 10 on the main for the “continuos” to work with the new pump. So, now I need to figure out what switch this is in a 10a variety and replace it. All this because I bought a Seaflo instead of the more expensive Rule pump, which I believe works on a 7.5a breaker. Thanks guys! Any idea what breaker this one is??

[CptBacardi]

I ordered a T11-1-10.0a-01-20A V breaker, hopefully that’s correct. The A and V at the end are supposed to mean vertical mount and certified. Hopefully it has the correct push on connectors and not the screw lugs... I’ve been through that mistake with the other breaker.

[tomschauer]

Is the new switch you bought also lighted? If so it should have a label on the side to show you the connections. If the ground wire is only there for the light. If it is on the wrong terminal, it will instantly trip the breaker when the switch is closed.
Those breakers do fail, but not often. I would remove the load side wires, reset it and check for voltage on the load side.

[bud37]

So Cap , are you saying that the switch is actually ok......you will be a breaker expert at the end of this... ..

[CptBacardi]

Bud, I had always suspected the helm switch was an on-off for “continuos” since it only had 3 connections. My soul told me not to mess with it. Of course I pulled a freakin wire out the crimp trying to get it off. The help in understanding the constant power circuit and to check the battery switch panel was monumental! The helm switch has a separate light tube, not connected to it. It all makes so much sense now. Thank you great sirs for the help! I shall post the results cause I too hate a cold thread where someone asks for help, gets great responses, then never tells the results. I know there will be more of this. Every nook and cranny on these yachts wants to make you work.

[km1125]

Qr Bbpost
Of course I pulled a freakin wire out the crimp trying to get it off.

It's actually a GOOD thing that you pulled on it and pulled it off, requiring you to FIX it. If you can pull a wire out of a crimp, then the crimp was no good to begin with, and would likely be causing voltage drop and intermittent connections down the road!

[CptBacardi]

Quick update. I installed the new 10a breaker in the battery 1/2/OFF/ALL panel, replacing the old 7.5a breaker. The 10a breaker trips right away as well when activating the float switch. Sigh. These Seaflo 1500gph Bildge pumps pull a LOT more than the Attwood and Rule pumps. If you’re reading this later, just get the more expensive pumps and save the hassle of tracking down and replacing all your breakers. To be fair, the Seaflo document does say it needs a 12a breaker. There are no 12a breakers available for 2 months, so I ordered a 15a that was in stock. Hopefully that isn’t breaking too many “rules”.

[bud37]

I think that if you get this up and running, trial run the pump etc with water and feel the wiring to make sure it is not getting hot at the connections, pump motor etc.......this just seems a bit odd, there is nothing saying your new pump isn't bad right out of the box, I have had two like that.

Did you happen to get a new float switch as well ?

[CptBacardi]

Ok just finished up. The 15a breaker operates the float switch normally. It is a new float switch bud. The wires don’t get hot under operation. One thing I noticed is the 10a breaker does not specify at what amperage it trips. The 15a breaker clearly states it trips at 20.5a. Maybe the 10a is a snap type breaker with no tolerance above 10a, it does trip immediately! When/if it bothers me enough I’ll put a 12a breaker in there just are none available. Thanks for the help everyone and I hope it helps someone some day!