tomschauer wrote:If you have a single 30 amp power supply at the dock, you most likely wont be able to run the a/c and water heater at the same time.
Sure you can. I have 2 AC units on my boat that run on a single 30. I used to have a Carver 3807 that had 3 AC units that ran on a single 30...actually, they pulled 29 amps, but we never had a problem.
If I recall, my water heater only pulls around 10 amps, so you could easily run a 16,000 BTU unit at the same time.
Most water heaters have a 1500watt element. 12.5 amps at a full 120v, lower dock voltage = higher amperage. The a/c unit may trip the breaker when starting due to the initial inrush current, especially if your battery charger, refrigerator or anything else is on.
Just letting him know you have to manage your power with a single 30 amp supply.
Where did you find the breakers? You said you have 5 inlets? I have 2 shore power at rear, cable/phone on port side. Where are your breakers? Maybe I have the same set up but never noticed them. Thank you for your help
Mike28 wrote:Thank you everyone for the responses.
I will look for breakers again this weekend.
Chpsk8,
Where did you find the breakers? You said you have 5 inlets? I have 2 shore power at rear, cable/phone on port side. Where are your breakers? Maybe I have the same set up but never noticed them. Thank you for your help
I don’t think those breakers became mandatory until early to mid 90’s, so there’s a good chance you don’t have them. My 1988, model 3807 did not have them. Anyway, if you have them, most likely they will be within inches of where your shore power cords connect to the boat. On my 356, my breakers have a hinged cover over them, the same cover that covers the electric connections when not in use.
tomschauer wrote:Qr Bbpost Most water heaters have a 1500watt element. 12.5 amps at a full 120v, lower dock voltage = higher amperage. The a/c unit may trip the breaker when starting due to the initial inrush current, especially if your battery charger, refrigerator or anything else is on.
Just letting him know you have to manage your power with a single 30 amp supply.
Just to clarify, that "lower dock voltage = higher amperage" does not apply to resistive loads such as those found in conventional water heaters. If the voltage drops, so does the current (Ohm's law). It DOES apply to the compressors in the air conditioners though.
I always wanted to add a cut-out relay on my water heater that would interrupt it whenever the A/C compressor was running. That way you'd always have some spare capacity left on the breaker, and it would likely not affect your water heater much.
Had the same issue on my boat. Turned out it was my splitter. Have you swapped ends of the splitter so that the line that was going to the AC is now to house to see if AC now works.?
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